Hello, my first post here, so I hope I can contribute in the future. I have a Zoeller M53 sump pump that died on me. I was moving the floater switch while connected to AC, and the pump made no noise whatsoever. It was dead. I disassembled it and found out that there were several stones at the bottom impeding the vortex to rotate. So my guess is that since it was impossible to turn, the pump heated up and died. Does this make sense? If so, and because I hate to give this piece of metal to the county since God knows what they will do with it, I though to revive it. It doesn't seem to be a very complicated piece of hardware, so I thought to give it a shot. If my assumption that something burnt inside because of the stones that entered from the outside (I have corrected this problem since), is it fair to assume that what I need to replace is just the switch? I saw a Switch Repair Kit on eBay for $34.00. Considering I can screw and unscrew, I figure that it is not a bad investment and a great way to recycle (i.e, keep using) the pump. But I would hate to spend the money, get all messy (oily stuff came out of the pump when I disassembled it), only to find out that the Kit is way off the mark. Can anybody shed any light on my guess? Does anyone think that the switch kit would do the trick? When I saw it, there is no sign of burn or anything, so I don't know. Thanks and I look forward to any help. If you have the switch off there should be 5 wires inside. Three comming from the cord (black white and green) and two others going into the motor. Take the black and white from the power cord and connect them directly to the two leads/terminals on the motor. What you are doing is by-passing the switch and sending the power directly to the motor. If the motor runs it's probably a bad switch. Was the pump hot when you first looked at it? If a stone jams the impeller the motor will overheat until the thermal overload inside the motor shuts it down. When it cools down it will reset itself and the motor will run again. If the pump was cold this wouldn't apply. Awesome suggestions, pumpguy! I will try by-passing the switch later tonight and will report back. To answer your question, I realized the pump was not working probably days after it failed. I can only tell you that by the time I realized it was not working and pulled it out of the pit, I can't remember it being hot. I did try to connect it back to the AC power on several occasions but, as I said, there is no power or even a hint of noise coming from the pump. One more thing I did notice when I disassembled it was that there was some type of plastic or hard substance debris in the rotor area compartment, that is, in the compartment underneath the switch. I could have been simple debris or something that melted with the heat, not sure. I will report back later on the by-pass. Thanks! That plastic debris is probably the insulation from the motor's windings. I've seen that before and if that's the case it's junk-not worth fixing. Sometimes when a pump jams it will overheat, shut down, cool off and repeat the process. It can only do this so many times before something gives. If you have an ohm meter you can check for continunity between the two motor leads/terminals. If you have none (open circuit) it's a boat anchor. A boat anchor it is. I tried bypassing the switch, and not even a pip. I guess it won't even be useful as an anchor since it has all that oil on it. Bummer. Thanks a million for your help, pumpguy. No problem, sorry it didn't work out better.
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Subject just about says what I know, the gas flows the igniter runs constantly when plugged in turned on, though there is no flame. I live in a small mountain town where finding anyone that works on something like this isn't an option. I already replaced the igniter as the old one burned out, sanded down the carbon on the thermostat, and... Spent a few hours on and off google, asked a few friends that know more about gas appliances than me (I'm more of an electric guy but love my gas stove) the stove burners all work properly, just the oven any ideas? Welcome to the forums. the gas flows the ignitor runs constantly when plugged in turned on, though there is no flame. Are you telling us that when you put the oven on that the igniter is glowing AND you have gas flowing but no flame or ignition. You need to tell us exactly what is happening. When you turn the oven on...... the ignitor should glow approximately thirty seconds or until it's very bright orange/white and then the gas valve should open with the burner lighting a second or two later. Hello Amites and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and the Gas Appliances topic. I too am also confused.... Some clarification requested. Gas flows despite ignition from the glow igniter? (HSI) No gas should flow to burner until igniter glows fully as described above by PJMax. However, if there is gas flow how do you know? Hear it? Smell it? Hope neither. If there is gas flow as you described in your post, then you have a potentially Dangerous condition. If there is gas flow and it happens after igniter glows it's full brightness as it should, then the condition may be position/location of the replaced igniter. Gas is then or could be not coming into contact with HSI. Not able to ignite. If such may be the case, igniter needs to be positioned so gas comes into contact immediately with HSI. Kindly use reply to thread button and clarify. Help us help you.... thank you for the warm welcome, I was rather tired when I posted last night, had it in my mind that the gas had been turned off completely which I had done previously -- checked again for reference the oven is a Whirlpool WFG110AV00 currently: igniter = unplugged gas line = on there is no gas available for the igniter, and the igniter runs constantly if it is plugged in (it's not right now) changing the dial for the oven has no effect this issue has been going on for weeks, originally I thought the thermostat was bad so I sanded any carbon buildup off, no effect any other details I can offer that I'm missing? I'm fairly handy just inexperienced with gas appliances Gas appliances are the one thing you want to troubleshoot reliably and with a good amount of confidence. Gas is not forgiving. Your model number is actually WFG110AVQ0 You sanded the carbon off of what.... the thermostat contacts ? This should be what your thermostat looks like. It should have two wires connected to it. The first thing you should do is remove those two wires from the thermostat and see if the ignitor is still coming on. If the ignitor is still coming on then you will need to unplug range from 120 v outlet and check all wiring for a short to ground. The link for the parts listing for your unit. Whirlpool Range Parts Model-WFG110AVQ0 The oven circuit is fairly basic. There are only three parts. The thermostat, the ignitor and the gas valve. They form a series loop. The pic I drew is accurate but I don't know exactly how your system is wired... in what order. That schematic will posted somewhere on your unit. Possibly back plate. If they supplied your ignitor with the hot wire on one leg and the other line going to the gas valve shorted to ground......the ignitor would work but not the gas valve or thermostat since the short would bypass them.
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The house I'm buying is a rectangle one story and 1300 sqft. It has an attached garage. The roof was replaced and the outside was painted recently but it appears that they didn't replace the gutters. You can see minor paint peeling already from the rains. I am looking at cost effectiveness. Any ideas what I will spend to install gutters myself? I briefly read about plastic and galvanized. Very much a newb at this so far (not a newb at construction though). So Cal btw. I would get an estimate from one of the gutter installers that use one piece gutters. They make the gutters on site to match your measurements. No seams=no leaks. I would believe a simple roof could be done for ~$750, but your location will dictate price. I got my gutters at 1.95 per foot here in NJ. Been 8 yrs and no issues. I see 2.95 per ft advertised now but I think prices have went up since I had them istalled. I think you can still find it cheaper. It cost me about 250.00 for all gutters, leaders ect...... about 114 ft Mike NJ Anybody think the vinyl gutters will last? No, and I had them. Dick If an installer wants to quote gutters with a leaf shield of some sort, you can figure triple the cost of plain gutters. Originally Posted by goldstar If an installer wants to quote gutters with a leaf shield of some sort, you can figure triple the cost of plain gutters. Good that you brought that up. Can't I just buy that stuff myself and install them after the contractor installs the seamless gutters? Seamless is the only way to go $5/foot is about the best you can do around here these days, haven't priced any kind of debris guard I went to the Home store and put those .99cent for 3 ft plastic ones on. Work great. Cost me about $25. ( Oh I see they are $1.96 now) Amerimax Snap-In Gutter Filter - 86270 at The Home Depot i just spent 80 bucks to install the home depot ones, pictured above, in october. i believe they did a great job but of course without getting up there in spring to actually pop them off and check, ill never know. i do know so far in a very very windy december they are all still up and appear to be functioning though. consumer reports also rated them pretty good if that means anything. very ez to cut and fit where you need to and i had a lot of special areas to do that with. Only problem i have, and i dont know if it's a real problem, is that the water really appears to be coming off them vs into the gutter. i have a thread on here with pics. can you take a peek and see if your guards still have this much water overflowing? http://forum.doityourself.com/roofin...rmal-pics.html
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I am doing a small remodel where we need to replace about thirty (30) 8x8 ceramic tiles. The color is off-white, perhaps almond or beige. I have been searching the internet high and low and have made numerous phone calls to the mainland looking for this older sized tile. Everyone tells me, That's an older tile and we don't carry it anymore. or You will have to match the color to a 12x12 and cut the tile to 8x8 yourself. Anyone have any suggestions on find the 8x8 tiles? There has to be some in a warehouse somewhere (I hope). Please don't suggest to replace the entire flooring as the square footage is cost prohibitive to the homeowner at this time. Here is the info I have from the back of one of the tiles I popped up: UNO Made in Italy MONO COTTURA (Single Firing) MONOCUISSON EINBRAND 3 (and) 85 (I don't know if this might be color codes or what.) Mahalo! Trying to locate discontinued tiles is like searching for a needle in a haystack. Take one of the old tiles with you to try to find a comparable match that can be cut down to size. I didn't want to hear that answer either. I would much rather be the knight in shining armor than just another guy with a hacksaw I will heed your advice and attempt to match this outdated tile and have it professionally cut (remember, I am a carpenter). Thank you very much for your honesty and for your promptness. Mahalo! Are these glazed ceramic?, if so, cutting them from larger tile isn't an option, they will not have the finished edge after cutting and not match, don't go that route. Yes, they are ceramic which is why I don't like the idea of cutting them. They are single-fired (when they glaze the tiles before firing; therefore only requiring one firing instead of two). I am concerned about the edges not having the slight bevel curve on the cut sides. Personally, I would recommend to replace all the old 8x8 tiles, but the area is too large to consider that cost at this time. I have started to remove a small area of tiles in another section in attempt to salvage enough to put them in the required area, but I am 1 for 8 in getting a good tile. They are set on a concrete floor and most chip or crack when I remove them. I am being as resourceful as possible. But, where can we find these old tiles? We've exhausted our resources. You might find the following article an interesting and inspiring read: http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magaz...storical.shtml Thank you for the referral link. We checked it out, but it seems more applicable to older tiles, not the 8x8's which are more of an 80's style. We do appreciate the suggestion. Meanwhile, we haven't even located a larger tile that matches the almond/beige color well enough so we're contemplating to suggest to the home owner to replace the kitchen tiled area since the kitchen is being remodeled and it doesn't appear to be cost effective to find these darn 8x8's. Back to the grind.... Good News (I think). The homeowner is adding a bathroom remodel and there are 8x8 tiles on the wall. I am hoping to salvage additional 8x8's from the wall board. If anyone has any suggestions as to the best way to approach this type of salvage, I'm all ears. We are about two weeks out on the bathroom tear out so I've bought myself some time. Thanks again! If there willing to remodel now. I would suggeset the floor to. To me replacing 30 tiles in a bathroom is alot of tiles. I think there is some movement in the floor to cause that many tiles to be replaced. If they are dead set on not replacing the floor. What is the tile on the walls on , durock ,sheetrock. And what is it set with , mastic or thinset. Sorry about that...I will be (hopefully) salvaging additional 8x8 inch tiles off the bathroom floor, not the bathroom wall. With my 1 for 8 success rate, I should have enough good 8x8's to use in the kitchen area as originally needed. As to whether they're willing to replace the floor too, they are not at this time due to the size of the area (1,000+ sq ft.) involved. It is a bottom floor that is entirely tiled with these darn outdated 8x8's. I swear they had a ship load of them back in the 80's and gave them away, because I keep encountering them and they are near impossible to find/match. It also doesn't help that many manufacturers have gone out of business since then or been bought out once, twice or more times making it like finding a needle in a haystack to locate. i see you were in the same predicament I find myself in today. 'd you ever find those uno monocottura tiles (8x8)? man, I wish I could find about 10 of them so I can do this simple regrout of my bathroom I, too, have been trying to hunt down 2 of these 8X8 tiles in a white/ecru color - same kind: UNO Made in Italy MONO COTTURA (Single Firing) MONOCUISSON EINBRAND 3 (and) 84 (that number is different than the one in this thread) We knocked out a linen closet to enlarge the bathroom and need 8 of these and only have 6. We are taking them out because I have had no luck finding these. We are going with some large 18x18 tiles that cover a lot of space that we had left over from our master bathroom redo a couple months ago. Didn't want to have to deal with that, but cannot find a match. This is an older thread, so most of the posters are gone, but welcome to the forums! Finding tile even a year after initial production that will match what you have will be almost impossible. The manufacturing process isn't like wine, where it turns out the same every time. Slight variations in color, firing, etc can cause mismatched tiles. Finding tile many years after won't be easy unless you take a sample with you and match it in good lighting. I had a customer who purchased the same brand, style of tile to extend into her hallway, several years after the original. Night and day, literally. Good luck with your search. Been there, this is likely going to end without you finding the tiles Trying to locate discontinued tiles is like searching for a needle in a haystack. I disagree with that. With the haystack, at least you know the needle is in there. Jaz
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Replacing a submersible pump seems pretty straightforward if one has the proper tools. I had to have my pump lowered 100 feet because the water level has been low causing cavitation. The cost was $700. It took 2 guys about 35 minutes to complete plus I estimate about $200-$250 in materials (100' of 12/2, 100' poly pipe, 1 barbed fitting, 2 splice kits and 4 hose clamps). The guys had 2 tools essential to doing the job easily and safely. One was a pair of vice grips with a special jaw that fit around the 1ј poly pipe to hold it in place. The other was a pulley block that clamps onto the side of the well casing and allows them to pull the pipe horizontally without scraping it against the well casing. They also has a T handled puller for the pitless adapter but I can make that with parts from Home Depot. Does anyone know what these other 2 tools are called and where they may be purchased? I tried Googling to no avail. Joe i say let them be liable. mess around and drop the pump and see how strait forward it is. if you thought they made alot off lowering the pump, lol. i love how people see 2 guys working well together and think what they are doing must be easy. me and my help can make drilling wells look easy, maybe when yours goes out you can get some tools and give that a shot too. hi guys – justwater I don’t understand! Why do you want to keep the technique a secret? I know less than Toolman but I have also been trying to learn the details of how the pros pull the pump up and what tools they use. No one ever seems to describe this in detail? I probably wouldn’t have the guts to try it even if I could get the proper tools. Afraid I’d drop the pump down the well as you say - and I’ve heard others warn the same. (Mine is a 4” pump, the well is 75’ deep, and the pipe is black PE. ) But just the same, I thought many folks are like me on this forum. They know they are taking a certain risk and they are trying to learn and figure out if the risk is worth it. You certainly would know how difficult the task is – but maybe given certain circumstances (like almost no cash) someone would take the risk. However, I do get your point, that there is a good chance that it would wind up costing you a lot more than you thought you would save. Or are you saying under no circumstances should anyone who isn’t a professional try to pull up their pump? I certainly could believe that , yet it does seem to me that I’ve also heard many stories of layman pulling up their own pump without too much trouble. nah i know people that have pulled their own sub. but normally, if a person has to ask you how and what tools to use, etc.. they probably dont have any business attempting it. all the guys i know that have done it are pretty ingenuitive and didnt need lessons. as far as pulling that particular pump, i really cant help you out much, i've never worked with poly. in my area everything is pvc or galvanized. i dont know where to get one of the contraptions described, i use a little more expensive tool- smeal 5t pump hoist. i have a couple ideas of do this though. one involves a rigged tire rim by the well and a fourwheeler.. lol. Thanks justwater! I looked up the smeal 5t to see what you are talking about. Oh my! That’s some big bucks there. For a businessman only. I have a bad setup - a well-pit, no pitless adapter or anything like that. The top has a well seal on it. I know you loosen the 4 bolts on the well seal to free the water pipe and then you can pull up the pump. Ever since I found that out I have some kind of sick impulse (like that urge to jump from a high place that some people get) to loosen the bolts just to feel how heavy the pump is. But I won’t do it! I can just see it now as I wave goodbye to the stuff that slips out of my hands. Joe if I ever come across what you are talking about I’ll be sure to post back. I’ve never seen anything like that – but what do I know – I’m really just talking about my Googling experience. Just got a thought…as justwater says some of the guys that did their own were pretty ingenuitve, could it be the contraptions you saw (they sound pretty good) were something they put together themselves and maybe we would never find them on the market? Just a thought. Well I found the vice grips. Here is a link: http://www.deanbennett.com/well-accessories-page47.pdf. They are called Drop Pipe Vise Grip for 1-1/4” Poly Pipe. I know the some of the well professionals would like to make this seem more complicated than it is, so they can overcharge people but I know several people who have done it themselves and I actually helped the 2 guys who came here to do it so I watched the whole operation and I could easily do it myself with the right tools and a helper. Also, the experts who did mine didn't even use a safety rope, which everyone I talked with and everything I've read on the subject says is a necessity. If I ever pull mine, I plan to use attach some stainless aircraft cable to the pump barb rather than use rope. Then I can do it myself in the future using a winch. That will make it real easy. As far as using a 4x4, I'll pass on that idea. That sounds like a great way to drop the pump down the well if you pull too hard or too fast. Thanks Joe. Really good information. That’s funny I’ve been to that Dean Bennett site many times before looking at tank tee’s and other things and never once thought to look for something like you found. I was wondering also if I had a safety rope. Guess I’ll find out someday. I wonder how the guys who put yours’ in justify no safety rope? Maybe in their experience they feel it’s an overkill? But all the stuff I read says you should have one. Seems like it wouldn’t be a whole lot of extra work to include one. I mean since the whole thing is pulled up anyway? And rope can’t be that expensive (can it)? That stainless steel cable sounds like a great idea to me (admittedly I am a novice) . Guess that wouldn’t become a standard because of the cost. But I’d be happy to spring for the cost and I bet a lot of other people would also. Sounds like you could sleep a lot better at night. We need to keep our comments on the positive side. Thanks Travis joe if you're still there I have a question about that DROP PIPE VISE GRIP that you found on the Dean Bennett site. How did the guys use that when they pulled up your pump? Not saying I would ever try it, but I would just like to know how they used it if you can remember. The steps are as follows: You will need two people for this. First, kill the power to the well pump. Remove the cap on the casing. Gently pull up any loose wire. If you are removing the pump you will have to cut each wire at the splice and remove the ground screw on the side of the well casing. Screw the T handle tool into the pitless adapter. Lift straight up (you may have to wiggle it a little). Pull up the T handle adapter until the pitless adapter is above the top of the well casing. Have your assistant clamp the vice grip tool around the poly pipe. This will hold it in place and keep it from falling down the well. Unscrew the T-handle. This is where the second pulley tool is clamped to the side of the well casing. I still have not located that or know what it is called. Then both of you pull the poly pipe across the lawn until you have everything up. One person should stay near the well casing so you can be sure nothing is getting tangled and know when the pump is near the top. The clamp can be removed and reapplied if you need a break but I'd leave it clamped on the whole time so if you slip, you don't lose the pipe and pump down the well. It is quite heavy with the weight of the pump, pipe filled with water, wire, etc. Once you see the torque arrestor, the pump will be right below it. Thanks Joe for that excellent detailed description. I heard that stuff was really heavy to pull up. I thought that was how the clamp was used but I wasn’t sure if someone keeps moving the clamp down the pipe and re-fastening as the pipe is pulled up. But I understand your description. (Seems scary about that stuff possibly sliding down the well. Also scary how heavy it is! And that’s with PE pipe.) Plumber installed a new 4” submersible pump in my house just before I moved in as part of the sale agreement. Probably could have watched if I would have thought of it. Too bad! I know he wasn’t a well man so maybe he is only able to do it in limited cases because of lack of equipment, or maybe he gets a well man to do it for him. Or maybe he really has a lot of equipment himself. But I digress. Thanks for your all your time Joe and the good information. If I may, I'd like to relate a story my daddy once told me. He was the foreman of the paint shop in a company that built and repaired rich people's boats, aka yachts. One day he was painting stripes on the caulking compound of a strip-planked deck when one of these rich men walked by and saw him. The rich man saw that my daddy was using a striping tool and asked him if anyone could buy that tool. My daddy replied that yes, anyone could buy the tool and it only cost a few dollars at any paint store. Then he added the kicker. You do, however, need to know use the tool. Any professional makes any job look easy to the uninitiated. It isn't so much the tools used as the person using the tools. good story furd with a good point! I won't argue that but I am an avid do-it-yourselfer and haven't found anything I couldn't tackle myself if I had the right tools, equipment and knowledge. And after all, this is the DIY forum! One must decide if it is worth it. It does take two strong people to pull a pump. I would not even have considered doing this myself, except I've paid the well guys $5,000 in the last 4 years and frankly, if they did the job right the first time, I could have gotten away with $2500 or so in one visit. Instead, I've spent $5,000 in 3 visits, have a badly burned lawn and possibly damaged pump now. This is pump #3 in 14 years. 1st pump lasted 10 yr., second pump lasted only 2 because they didn't do the job right and now pump #3... Who knows? I just know the two things that kill a pump fast are cycling and cavitation and this pump has had some of the latter because it was not placed low enough in the well. So at this point, if the job needs to be done again, I want it done right. And i know the only way I can guarantee that will happen is if I do it myself. As a side note, a buddy of mine had the same problem. His well guy is great. He installed a larger pump, lowered it in the well and installed a cycle stop valve in one shot. Total cost was $1700 and one visit. This was about the same time I had my first visit and he has had no problems since. I'm on visit number 3 with no assurance that the pump won't croak tomorrow. Joe I understand what you are saying, Joe. Nothing burns me more than paying a professional to do a job and he doesn't do any better than I. That stated, I used to repair my own shoes but as I have gotten older I value my time more than spending a little money. Still, I have a project going on right now that a pro could have finished in a week but I wanted it done MY way so I'm still working on it. For your situation all I can do is recommend a different well guy. Your friend seems to have found the person that you should be using. The special clamp for grabbing pipe when you are pulling it is nothing more than a pair of welders vice grips with some angle iron welded to it. Cut a 1 inch coupling in half longitudinally and weld that to them and you have the same thing. Welders vice grips are readily available. Or you could use my method. Simply take two pieces of 2 x 6 about 16 inches long. Cross cut a 3/4 inch deep V on opposing faces about midway. Adhere some peel and stick rubber through the V. Install a door butt (Hinge) on one end. There, with a pair of welders vice grips, is your pipe clamp with more gripping area, and soft jaws. I would recommend wipng the upcoming riser with a water/bleach formula to remove slime, and increase grip. You can use a standard wood clamp if you don't have a pair of welders vice grips. I dont recommend quick grips, as they do not exert enough force. You can also use a carriage bolt on one end with flat washers and nuts. A Puller can be as simple as a chain hoist on a tripod made of 4 x 4's, A boat winch, or a long turn elbow fastened to your casing, and your lawn tractor. The coolest tool I have seen lately is the Pull-A-Pump. If your local rental place has one of these, rent it, and watch the video on U-Tube. Really Cool. No offense to the real pros, and I don't mind paying a pro to do things, the problem is that there are fewer and fewer what I consider to be Pros available these days. Just because you do it for a living does not, in my opinion make you a pro. Case 1: I had a swimming pool installed by Pros and the water level in the pool was 6 inches lower from the coping on one end than it was on the other. They actually tried to tell me that the pool was dead level. I asked them if they thought water lied in our part of the county, and they didn't get it. Case 2: I had a well pump installed by a Pro that failed within 18 months because the power line to the pump was not properly secured against chafing. Case 3: I recently took my ford pickup in to a ford dealership to find a problem I was having. They had it for 10 days, burned up a tank of fuel, and they admitted that there was a problem but could not find it, because it was intermittent, and the computer could not tell them what was wrong. I found the answer on the internet. placed there by an old timer, bless his heart. Cost me about 3 dollars and 15 minutes. Turned out to be oil on two hair thick wires in the MAF sensor. I removed the sensor, sprayed it inside with CRC electronic cleaner, and the truck has run perfect ever since. Case 4: I recently had a linoleum floor installed by Professionals they left air pockets in the floor, and told me they would go down. They didnt. Their fix was to slice the blisters. I said to them are you ****ting me? You are going to slice up my new floor?????? I had them rip the whole thing out and get the hell out of my house. Yes, I was pissed, and that floor was purchased through Big Blue. Big Mistake. That, my friends is why I do everything myself, and why I will continue to do so until I no longer can. Of course there is the grand that I will save by switching out my own pump. A grand will buy you a nice Mig welder complete with argon tank. A grand will buy you and your wife a short cruise. A grand will buy you about 300 gallons of gas. A grand will buy you...................................................well you get the point. No offense to the real pros, and I don't mind paying a pro to do things, the problem is that there are fewer and fewer what I consider to be Pros available these days. Just because you do it for a living does not, in my opinion make you a pro. It is unfortunate but I completely agree with this statement. Far too many people working in the trades think they know everything about their specific trade when in reality they only know enough to do the routine jobs, and sometimes not even that. Originally Posted by jagans The special clamp for grabbing pipe when you are pulling it is nothing more than a pair of welders vice grips with some angle iron welded to it. Cut a 1 inch coupling in half longitudinally and weld that to them and you have the same thing. Welders vice grips are readily available. Or you could use my method. Simply take two pieces of 2 x 6 about 16 inches long. Cross cut a 3/4 inch deep V on opposing faces about midway. Adhere some peel and stick rubber through the V. Install a door butt (Hinge) on one end. There, with a pair of welders vice grips, is your pipe clamp with more gripping area, and soft jaws. I would recommend wipng the upcoming riser with a water/bleach formula to remove slime, and increase grip. You can use a standard wood clamp if you don't have a pair of welders vice grips. I dont recommend quick grips, as they do not exert enough force. You can also use a carriage bolt on one end with flat washers and nuts. A Puller can be as simple as a chain hoist on a tripod made of 4 x 4's, A boat winch, or a long turn elbow fastened to your casing, and your lawn tractor. The coolest tool I have seen lately is the Pull-A-Pump. If your local rental place has one of these, rent it, and watch the video on U-Tube. Really Cool. ... . Really good information jagans. For myself I would like to say thanks. That pull-a-pump video is great. He makes it look so easy. You don’t really get a feel for how heavy the stuff he is pulling up really is. The machine does all the work. It looks great! Definitely would be good to rent. For some reason I thought those pump assemblies were much shorter? Have to go back and look what I read from the Gould’s manual. Must be something I didn’t understand? But empty of water it didn’t look too heavy. He was able to hold it himself without any problem. I’m sure I’m older than you guys (I’m part of the Medicare bunch). I just hope there isn’t just some kind of progression over time towards less and less care about whatever it is you do. It does seem that way to me - but maybe I’m wrong. Hope so. You would think that the sons and daughters of people who really care about their work would inherit that attitude from their parents. So it would be perpetuated. Who knows? My father never even graduated from high school, but he learned a lot on the job and worked hard. He worked in the maintenance department at a children’s hospital in Philadelphia for over 45 years. One of his jobs was to take care of the hospital boilers. Never forget when I was a kid he would get calls in the middle of the night that the hospital was having problems with the heat or power (I think the incubators were the most worrisome). He would rush out like a fireman in the middle of the night, and he did that many many times. Other employees on the team also did the same. He always really cared about the job he did. Long story short, he was promoted to supervisor of the entire maintenance department and when he passed away the hospital placed a plaque in the department and named the entire department after him. That is very unusual for a hospital to name any department for someone who isn’t a doctor and/or a financial benefactor. But I digress. I’m sure there must be a lot of people out there, including well guys, that do a really good job and care about what they do. The other bad guys hurt them. Hope we are really not going downhill. Maybe it just seems that way. Where I worked there was a manger that no one liked, but he said something one day that seemed oversimplified to me then, but I’ve been thinking- maybe it makes sense. He said “ a professional is just someone who really cares about the job they do”. I am a die hard do-it-your self guy. But some times you just need to step a side, let the pros do the job. My pump went about 5 years ago. I had seen this home improvement show where they had replaced a pump, it looked easy enough, so I decided to change mine my self. 1st off it took me almost two days of digging to finally find the well. The old guy next door asked me what I was doing. I told him I needed to replace my pump.He said I hope you are feeling really strong. He lived next door when the well was drilled, and it was just about 300 ft. of 3/4 '' galvinized pipe. I called a pro, there was no way I was going to try that. I hear you but the pros have botched the job 3 times to the tune of $5,000. Fortunately, mine has an above ground well casing and poly pipe. Joe I am a die hard do-it-your self guy. But some times you just need to step a side, let the pros do the job. Hi Edward – I know what you mean when you say two days to find the well. Mine was only 22 feet from my house. I was looking much farther away and I had been looking for days when my neighbor told me it was right near the walkway to my house. So I finally found the well, dug my broken well pipe up (only 22 feet long), and then did a magnificent (haha) job of replacing it. I used black PE. Just curious, did they replace your galvanized pipe with PVC or black PE? Or did they inspect your galvanized pipe and feel that it was OK to re-use it and put it back down in the well? Around where I live I believe they only use black PE from the well-head to the house and also black PE as the drop pipe down the well. I’m old enough where I have this prejudice against plastic. (I know, that’s not rational, things do change) I guess really the right thing to do is to listen to what the well guys and plumbers say today. So if there is a consensus among them that PVC or black PE is the right thing to use today, then I guess you can’t argue with that. Seems to me there is a very great variation in the weight of this stuff you have to pull up from the well. Yours which is 300 feet of 3/4 galvanized pipe would be seem to me to be really really heavy. Don’t think a plumber and assistant would pull that up by hand (haha). Mine is nowhere near as deep , and like ToolmanJoe’s uses much lighter black PE pipe. I did a rough calculation and my pump in the well 75 feet deep with one inch black PE seems to me to be somewhere around 70-80 lbs – with water. I know some guys that could probably lift that themselves 75’ out of a well (not me, I can only lift 40 lbs of birdseed 3 feet high into a can, then I have to rest!) Sounds like you made a good decision to bring in the pro’s. But it is interesting, that youtube video jagans referenced showing the pull-a-pump device makes you wonder. The video shows how easy it was to pull up the pump on PVC drop pipe. But maybe the machine would make it just as easy with galvanized pipe? But I think I would be chicken to try it with galvanized. Don’t blame you for not even thinking about it. But when the day comes I think I would certainly try pull-a-pump with the black PE. (Yea – that’s what I say today!) Joesdad, no they didn't replace the pipe, I don't really remember why. But I do remember it was like a 2 day job. 1 to pull the pump, and 1 to put it back. They had a chain hoist, on a tri-pod, and could only pull about 8 ft, at a time. I just know it was money well spent. Oh yea! I see what you are saying. Your case certainly sounds like money well spent.
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Tappan Furnace FG6RC 120C-20C, About 5 years old --- Thermostat clicks on, induced draft fan runs, blower fan runs for about 30-seconds; then shuts down --- draft fan continuous to run --- Red LED on control board flashes a code of two (which indicates a pressure switch stuck open according to the info on the schematic) --- I pull the pressure switch off and blow into the air lines --- the ohmmeter shows an open condition --- How else can I troubleshoot and where can I get parts for this furnace? Time to replace the pressure switch. This is a critical safety part, and I'd replaced it ONLY with a switch specified for your furnace by the manufacturer. Make a not of the complete model and serial number of the furnace, which can be obtained from the rating plate in the burner compartment of the furnace. I'd shop around for the distributor who sells that brand in your area, or on line. But be sure you are getting the part specified by the manufacturer. The pressure switch works in the opposite way that you think it does. They are normally open. Instead of blowing down that tube you must suck on it. If you do suck on it you will hear a click. Then put the hose back on the switch, turn it on and wait for that click. If you dont hear it then replace the pressure switch. Testing the pressure switch by blowing or sucking only varifies the switch part has the ability to close contacts. But it does not prove the reason why the switch failed to close under normal operating vacuum, and remains or goes open when running. (Although it would prove it if you were sucking on it, and it could not close, as presumed by SP and also stated by ender.) It can be several otherr causes, besdies the switch. Two common maladies are the 1/4 inch vacuum tube where it plugs in at the inducer nipple gets crud down in that nipple. Another cause is that condensate water is backed up. Blowing out the condensate drain lines both directions will fix the latter. There are other causes also, of course, including the switch, venting issues, something wrong with the inducer fan, heat exchanger, etc. But check out those 2 things. As SP has often alluded to in many threads regarding thsi subject, a manometer needs to be used to deternine if the cause is the pressure switch itself.
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Have a slow drip (ever 5-7 seconds in the bath) and need to replace cartridge in my single handle Stanadyne shower faucet. I didn't grab any pictures, but can post later if I need to. Most stuff I've read indicates to use this MOEN Single-Handle Replacement Cartridge-1200 at The Home Depot cartridge but since it's not technically a Moen, I wanted to see if anyone had any advice. I see there are a few different shapes to these cartridges and with a 2 week old in the house, I'd rather not have the water off (have to turn main off) for long and have the part ready to go and just switch it out instead of driving to the store to get it with water off. I can post pics if that will help. There is no information on the outside of the escutcheon plate. All I get it Stanadyne. No idea of time frame for install. Thanks in advance. If you contacted Moen direct with a picture and some info they will send you the needed parts for free. Joecaption1 I appreciate the help, but I've read that since I was not the purchaser of the faucet, just the home it was in, I would not be eligible for this free replacement part. I may try doing that just to get them to provide the part required, if I can't first get it here. Thanks. Not sure where you saw that, it's just not true. I've done it many times and I was not even the owner of the house, they just asked a few questions to ID it and where to ship it. Great. I will give it a try. perhaps their policy has changed, but moen did not offer any part for free. They confirmed the part needed (1225) and said I could buy it at Moen.com or Home Improvement stores. I purchased on Amazon. Their contact form asks specifically if you bought the faucet and have proof of purchase, FYI. Now to see how the install goes when I get the piece. Any tips on the install or is this ( http://www.moen.com/swf-embed?src=/a...=410width=640 ) sufficient? Thanks. I replaced the cartridge in my Moen kitchen faucet not too long ago. The faucet was like the one in the bottom row middle picture in the instructions you reference. I think that is a very good tutorial and from what I remember is exactly how it is done. You need that white tool they sreally wiggle the old cartridge back and forth before you try to pull it out. I pulled hard on mine after doing the wiggle and it popped out up into the air – shocked me! lol Good luck!
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Hello Everyone! Here's my situation. I've just installed an outdoor wood boiler and it's delivering 175єF water to a stainless steel, double-walled sidearm heat exchanger installed immediately alongside my electric water heater. The bottom of the sidearm is plumbed into the drain outlet of the water heater, while the top end of the sidearm connects to the pressure relief outlet on the side of the water tank. The hookup is just what's needed for proper thermosiphon action, but to boost water circulation through the inner part of the sidearm I have a Grundfos 15-58 circulator on top of the sidearm, drawing water from the bottom of the tank and moving it up to the top connection. A Grundfos 26-99 circulates boiler water through the outer passage of the sidearm. Water flows are opposite to each other – downward flow of the 175єF boiler water, and upward flow of the DHW from the the bottom of the tank to the top. The sidearm gets hot to the touch on the outside, but it doesn't transfer heat to the water flowing through the inner pipe. I know for sure that water is flowing through the inner part of the sidearm (I can hear it flowing if I partially close a shut-off valve at the bottom of the sidearm), but even with the system running all night, and no DHW being used, the tank only gets to about 100єF with the electric elements turned off. I thought at first that the problem might be too much mixing of the DHW in the tank because of the 15-58 circulator, but that's not the case. The tank heats up fine with the circulator running and the electric elements turned on. The more I look at things, the more it seems like that sidearm simply isn't transferring heat. I had originally planned to go with a flat plate heat exchanger in a similar set up to what I have, but opted for a pump-assisted sidearm because of the hard water I've got. The sidearm I've got is double-walled, and perhaps theres a design flaw in this approach. If double-walled means there's some kind of an air space between the inner water passage and the outer one, that sounds like the problem to me. I'm at a loss on proceed. Can anyone offer some insights? I know sidearms work because I've seen them work. Mine is plumbed for thermosiphon action, but it's simply not heating the water flowing through it, even when pump-assisted. Is there anything I can do other than scrap a brand new, $250 sidearm heat exchanger and plumb in a flat plate exchanger? Thanks a million! Steve Steve, I think the problem is that you're pumping the sidearm. The water isn't spending enough time in contact with the hot pipe to transfer any heat... The pump you are using is a BRONZE body one? It should be if it's on the potable water side... but I don't think you want a pump in there anyway. Here's my 2 cents. I have a Central Boiler E Classic 2400 and have the sidearm setup on my hotwater heater along with a 30 plate 4x8 plate exchanger. You may ask, Why both? Well, when I had just the sidearm, we could get 2 showers out of the way and the 3rd person was going to get a cold one. It would then take about 3-4 hours for the sidearm to reheat the 40 gals of water in the HWH back up to about 165-170 degrees. I decided to add the plate exchanger so that as water was running, it goes through the plate exchanger before dumping into the tank. Now, I am dumping warm water into a really hot tank of water. We can now take 4 showers back to back with nobody getting a cold shower. I cannot believe by having a pump on your sidearm that you have cold water! The only thing I might wonder is would the pump serve better at the bottom of the sidearm instead of at the top? From what I recall, a TACO pump cannot suck water. If it was at the bottom of the sidearm, the water would be readily available to the pump and it would simply push it through the sidearm. I don't want to discredit anyone, but I tend to disagree with NJ Trooper only because I also heat my 30' above ground swimming pool and the pump from the filter pushes water through a heat exchanger very similiar to a sidearm at a rediculously high flow rate, I think like 400+ gallons per minute, and the water enters the pool after exiting the HE actually warm. Please let know if you have been able to solve your problem. You're not alone! The only thing I might wonder is would the pump serve better at the bottom of the sidearm instead of at the top? No... wouldn't make any difference. It's basically a closed loop so all you need to do is turn the ferris wheel of water. There's water at both the top and the bottom. Put a pump at the top, bottom or sides of any closed loop system and the performance will be the same. I think like 400+ gallons per minute Good Lawd... how big is that pump, and how big is the pipe? You know that's durn near impossible, right? Highly unlikely. That water would get hot just from the FRICTION of it moving through the pump and pipes! The sidearms for use on water heaters of that type are not intended to be pumped. You can't compare a device intended for heating a swimming pool to one for a water heater. That type of sidearm is intended to be used with thermo-siphon, and that's why it takes a while to work. The water has to remain in contact with the heated pipe long enough to pick up heat from it. Yes, EVENTUALLY the water will get hot. But a sidearm of that type can't be expected to give 140° water when it's flowing past the heated part of the exchanger at several (or MORE) GPM. On second thought though, the actual TIME it might take to heat a tank of water could be about the same, pumped or thermosiphon. I wonder if Steve removed the pump and just let it thermosiphon if he would see the same temp rise in the same amount of time. OR, it might have something to do with the double wall construction as was mentioned? It would be enlightening to know the make and model of that sidearm and look at the manufacturers specs as to it's capacity. It would also be interesting to know the delta T on the boiler side of the sidearm when operating. How hot going in? How much cooler coming out? That would be a measure of how many BTU are being given up to the domestic water side. (same with the domestic side... how cool off the bottom, and how warm off the top? Probably almost the same, my guess... ) It's actually almost the exact same principle we see with fin-tube baseboard... but in the reverse; Let's say you have a heating loop of 65' of fin-tube and pump 4 GPM of 180° water through it. Given the 600 BTU/LF rating of typical baseboard, physics dictates that the water will come back appx 20° cooler. Now, increase the GPM to say 8 GPM. What happens? The water comes back only TEN degrees cooler because there isn't as much 'dwell time' for the water to give up the heat energy. Let's slow the GPM to TWO next. The water will come back 40° cooler because it now has time to give up twice as much heat. OK, I had to go out to the shed to look. Pump for the pool is 70 GPM and exchanger has 2 1/2 inch connections. I have done some research today and opinions swing both ways on the pumps on the sidearm. The ones who have it swear by it, and the ones who don't say don't waste the money. On several HX websites they state you can cut your recovery time of your HWH by 3 to 4 times by adding a pump to your sidearam. I can't weigh in on it because I don't have a pump on mine, but I don't need it. There was something in the instructions while I was setting up my sidearm that it needed to go above the HWH like 3 or 4 inches to make the thermosiphon work correctly. I would like to see some pics of your setup if possible. Have you tried removing your pump. I still find it odd that the outside of your sidearm is hot to the touch but after running all night, your tank does not pick up more temp than 100 degrees. Over time, especially after going all night, it would seem the tank should warm up much hotter than that. Is there any chance there is a obstruction in the sidearm? Maybe the plastic cap they put on the ends got broke and got forced up inside the tube. Steve, here is one of the links I came across which should support your idea of the circulating pump on your sidearm. I still favor either a flaw in the setup or a plugged sidearm. Sidearm Heat Exchangers QUOTE FROM DISTRIBUTOR'S WEBSITE: Applications of the Sidearm Heat Exchanger Due to the compact size and lightweight of the Sidearm heat exchanger these units are ideal for residential heating and plumbing applications. Also called domestic water heat exchangers, they are typically used to heat domestic water using either a conventional boiler, outdoor wood furnace or a solar hot water system. Typically the domestic water is circulated by means of the thermosiphon principle which saves on the cost of a pump and the associated electrical costs. In cases where faster heat recovery is required the domestic hot water should be circulated by means of a pump. Pump circulation will typically provide a heat recovery 3 to 4 times greater than thermosiphoning. I did a little reading the past couple days on these things... Have seen widely varying BTU output numbers for essentially the same size unit, from 8000 BTUH to 22500 BTUH. One manufacturer says that their 8K unit will output 12K if pumped... at TWO GPM. I am absolutely certain that even on LOW speed, the15-58 G'fos pump is at the very least pumping at 6 GPM, and I think that's a conservative estimate. MORE flow does not necessarily equate to more BTU, even IF pumping a domestic sidearm will increase it's capacity, (it IS after all, a function of SURFACE AREA , thermal conductivity , and DELTA T that determines the transfer. If the pump improves this, it is probably because it adds TURBULENCE to the flow, thus increasing the transfer rate) and there MUST be a point of diminishing returns. I believe a domestic hot water recirc pump would be MORE than large enough to flow 2 GPM through the sidearm. AND it will be BRONZE, which I don't think Steve's 15-58 is... but he's not been back to answer that question. Hit and run... I SERIOUSLY doubt the claims of the manufacturer that says pumping will provide 3 to 4 times faster recovery. It may even be the same manf that says pumped is 12 K ... only one and a half times more BTU output... how can that possibly equate to 3 to 4 times faster recovery? Let's look at a 40 gallon WH. There's 320 pounds of water in there. Let's say the incoming water is 60°F and our target is 120. That's a 60° rise. It takes one BTU to raise one pound of water one degree. Therefore, to raise 320 pounds 60 degrees you would need to input appx 20K BTU into the water (assuming no new water added, no use, say overnight) So, with an example HX of 8K BTUH in thermosiphon mode, you would be looking at a little over 2 hours to heat the tank. If the 12K figure is to be believed, you would be looking at a little under 2 hours. In either case, recovery time is going to severly suck. Two quick showers back to back and yer gonna have to wait another two hours for a third. Sidearms have their place, but don't disconnect the electric elements! Yer gonna need them! Even so... with that thing running all night, and 175° boiler water flowing the whole time, I would expect the temp to be higher than 100. It probably should have easily been at 120, and I would expect even higher. Don't forget too that as the water in the domestic tank approaches the temp of the boiler water, the heat transfer is gonna slow WAY down... that's the DELTA T part of the equation. I just had another thought... in a typical water heater, you really don't have 40 gallons of water heated to SETPOINT. With a thermostat near the center of the tank, your AVERAGE temp in the tank would be at the setpoint. Hotter on top, cooler on bottom. Pumping the sidearm might have the advantage of providing MORE water at setpoint because of the 'mixing' that goes on. I would think that pretty much the entire tank will be at the same temperature. There's a downside to this though... if the pump happens to be running while the hot water is being drawn, the entire tank will also cool down at the same time because of the same mixing... cold water entering the tank gets pumped and mixed to the top of the tank. This doesn't happen without a pumped sidearm... the hot water is drawn from the top while the bottom is filled with cold. There's little mixing of the incoming water occurring. Let's see if Steve comes back and tells us that the single wall model the manufacturer agreed to send him works any better. By the way Wayno, no problem disagreeing... it causes me to think and substantiate my statements... I like an intelligent discussion! There was something in the instructions while I was setting up my sidearm that it needed to go above the HWH like 3 or 4 inches to make the thermosiphon work correctly. Check those instructions again... if there's a loop coming up off the sidearm, over and down into the tank on top, you are creating what is essentially a 'heat trap'. The taller the up and over loop becomes, the LESS the thermosiphon action. The heated water will rise to the top of the loop, but not flow back down. The IDEAL connection points for this type of sidearm would both be on the side of the tank, high and low, not on top. You want to MINIMIZE the height of the pipe on top of the tank as much as possible for maximum thermosiphon action. NJ, I just had those instructions out last night. I wish I had taken a snapshot to post. I have a couple pics of my system. My system works flawlessly. You will notice my temp gauge is showing around 170 when pic was taken. Usually fluctuates between 170 and 179 depending on use at the time viewing it. Also, it is a clip on thermostat so temp is likely seveal degrees warmer than stat shows. I'll dig those instructions out tonight and see what they say. I wonder if it said within 3 of top? I'll let you know. Below are links to my pics Pic 1: http://websites.networksolutions.com...=1334846254634 Pic 2: http://websites.networksolutions.com...=1334846383788 Pic 3: http://websites.networksolutions.com...=1334846344914 I looked at the sidearm installation instructions last night and it says to extend no more than 3 to 4 inches above the DHW heater. So NJ, you are correct in saying you should stay close to the top of the tank.
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Over the past couple of years (I know - couple of YEARS!) I've surrounded my back yard with a 6-foot high privacy fence made from pressure-treated lumber. I need to protect it. What is the baddest-ass stain I can apply - one that will protect the fence the best - and which I don't have to re-apply every year or two? Thanks! Mike A fence is mostly vertical surfaces -- the stain/sealer will stay on it for several years, unlike the horizontal surface of a deck. Easiest way to appy it is with a sprayer and back-roll it as you go. That can be either an airless sprayer, or a hand-pumped garden sprayer. Use a quality stain/sealer -- one that's going to cost about $30/gal. or so. Get it at a paint store, NOT a big box store. Super Deck, Sikkens, the house brand from BM or SW -- you won't find those brands in a big box store. Plan on doing it every 5 years or so. Thanks Lefty! I was afraid that was the answer! Always searching for the easy way out! Mike Wait a minute Mike. The only thing that would be easier than spraying and back rolling would be to do nothing at all and let nature take it's course with the fence. You're the one who built the fence and you're the one who'll be replacing it. Do nothing and replacement will be in about 15 years. Seal it and it may be 20 or 25 years before you get to that bridge. Turn it into a party. I've gotten plenty of projects done by telling folks I'm having a cookout. I furnish supplies, food, beverages....they furnish a few hours of labor. Its actually pretty fun. Just make sure any adult beverages are controlled until the work is done. We put up a neighbors 400 ft stick built privacy fence, back in VA, in about 6-8 hrs. Sat morning and guys started hearing a hammer banging...next thing you know, 2 table saws were set up and extension cords for the skilsaws were on all sides. Guys were working, wives were cleaning up and bringing drinks, older kids were watching younger kids....I swear it was like a barn raising in Amish county. Big ole cookout and a keg after....man what a great time. Course that was 3 houses and 1 wife ago...lol. Anyway...you'd be well advised to use a brightener and a pressure washer...get the wood to a reasonably consistent state all around, make any repairs, then stain/seal. Anyway...you'd be well advised to use a brightener and a pressure washer...get the wood to a reasonably consistent state all around, make any repairs, then stain/seal Worth repeating The cleaner the fence, the better the stain job will look and last Not all stains can be sprayed thru a pump up garden type sprayer - only the thinner ones and they usually have the shortest life span I'd clean the fence before I decided which type of stain to use. A clear, toner or translucent stain lets the most wood grain/color show thru but also has the shortest life span. Some of these can be sprayed thru a garden sprayer. A solid stain looks closer to paint and usually lasts the longest. A semi-transparent stain falls in the middle.
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I have 2 Rheem heat pumps in my home that had regular mercury type thermostats. I decided to install a Honeywell RTH6350 programmable tstat on both units. I followed the directions and wiring digrams for both. One unit worked perfectly after the installtion but the other had issues. When heat was called for, it seemed like very little heat was coming out of the register and little or no air flow. I took the cover off the blower unit and put the fan on ON and the fan was working. I put the original tstat back on and things worked perfectly again. The model number of the one having the issues is Rheem RHQA-0810B. The wiring I had for the Honeywell hookup was as follows: red - R with jumper to RC Yellow -Y Orange - O/B Green - G White - Aux with jumper to E Blue - Not connected per instructions Black (X) - Not connected per instructions. As far as the post-installation setup, I believe my options-selected were as follows: 1-5 2-0 (since O was connected to O/B as instructed) 6-5 8-9 13-1 14-0 I tried calling the Honeywell help line and they were no help. Any ideas on what I can try to resolve this? Thanks. What was blue tied to? Is the outdoor unit Rheem/Ruud as well? If so, set up#2 needs to be 1. 6 and 8, I'd suggest 3 for better comfort. The outdoor unit is Rheem. The blue was to blue on the original tstat and it says not to use that wire on the RTH6350 setup. On function 2 the manual stated that if you connected an O to the O/B terminal to use option 0 for that function. On 6 8, it says that that a 3 is for hot water or HE gas furnace. Will those work with the heat pump correctly? what color wires were on what terminals on the old stat. Lets start there. Red - R Yellow -Y Orange - O Blue - B Green - G White - W2 black - X Jumper from W2 to E Thanks. You don't use the orange on rheem, not sure why they used the o since they use B. You want the blue on the o/b. Are you saying that if from the wire setup in the first post I leave everything the same but replace the orange wire on the O/B terminal on the RTH6350 and change the function 2 setting to 1 it should work correctly? And I should change the functions 6 8 to 3 as well as mentioned earlier? Thanks again. Yes, move the blue wire in place of the orange, and make those changes. Thanks for the info. I'll make those changes and let you know how it works out. it is possible that this stat will not work because you have o and b hooked up on your old stat and may need a stat with separate o and b terminals. Give is the make and model of your inside unit and outside. Also, is this zoned? The inside unit is an RHQA-0810B. I'll get the outside model number next time I'm home and post it. Thanks. Okay - The inside model is RHQA-0810B and the outside unit is RPMA-024JAZ. Let me know if you need any further information - thanks. I'm not seeing anything special with this.. So, not sure why O/Orange was used. Did you look at the air handler and trace the orange wire to see where it went to? At the air handler the orange is connected to a purple wire. Not sure why they tie it to this purple wire, in the diagram it shows goes to an optional Defrost Heat Sensor. It looks like it should be tied to the HP's defrost wire. So, when the unit goes into defrost, the purple wire powers up the heat strips. But that wouldn't explain the issues I had with the new tstat not working correctly, would it? Your old stat had B hooked up so you had the HP working, and Made me wonder about your cooling bill! Cuz O is powered up in cooling mode. So what would be the your suggested configuration for the wires? Leaving the blue not connected like before and leaving everything else as posted previously for the new TSTAT? If so, since it didn't seem to work that way previously, do you think there might me an issue the the new tstat? Like a said earlier, I hooked up 2 of the new honeywell tstats on the same day and the other is working fine. The only difference in in the wiring is that the one that is working didn't have an orange wire connected. what did you do with the blue wire on the other stat? My suggestion is to hook everything up but orange and configure the system to use b with heating Put the Blue wire on the O/B on the stat, and tuck the orange wire into the wall. Go to the air handler, and see were the defrost wire is going to. OK - I tracked all of the connections and here they are: Old TSAT: red-red yellow - yellow orange - orange blue - blue green - green white - W2 black - X Jumper W2 to E There are 3 sets of wires going to the air handler: #1 (4 wires) blue - blue #2 yellow - red #3 brown - black #2, air handler brown orange - air handler purple #2 (6 wires) green - air handler black black - brown #1, air handler brown red - air handler red white - air handler black blue - blue #1 yellow - white #3 #3 (2 wires) red - yellow #2 white - yellow #1 Air handler (5 wires, connections listed above) black #2 black #2 red purple brown Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks. Old STAT: red-red 24 volt power yellow - yellow compressor orange - orange not used blue - blue reversing valve green - green fan white - W2 heat strip black - X common Jumper W2 to E There are 3 sets of wires going to the air handler: #1 (4 wires)outdoor unit blue - blue #2 yellow - red #3 brown - black #2, air handler brown orange - air handler purple It is odd that we do not suppy 24 volts to the outdoor unit, but the diagram I see agrees with this. #2 (6 wires)Stat green - air handler black black - brown #1, air handler brown red - air handler red white - air handler black blue - blue #1 yellow - white Notice that stat orange is not used #3 (2 wires)Float switch red - yellow #2 white - yellow #1 Air handler (5 wires, connections listed above) black #2 black #2 red purple brown The 2 blacks had a small colored stripe at one time. Sorry, I missed one connection on the list that I mentioned earlier in the thread, at the air handler the orange is connected to a purple wire. I see that the outdoor unit orange connects to air handler purple. How many orange wires are connected to air handler purple? Sorry, only one. The outdoor unit orange to air handler purple. So as mentioned earlier, the orange should not be connected to the new TSTAT? Also, since I put the old tstat back up until I get the new one working, should the orange wire not be used with the old tstat either? Connecting orange to your stat will risk popping a low voltage fuse or damaging your transformer (if a low voltage fuse or low voltage breaker is not present) if it touches the air handler body . I would not connect orange to the stat. This wire would be energized when a cooling demand is present. Take the cover off the unit outside, and see where that orange is tied at. Orange is going to be defrost (D or W). I'll check/verify the connection on the outdoor unit. It will probably be on the weekend since it gets dark so early. I'll post what I find then - Thanks.
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Hi Everyone: This is my first posting to this forum....great information posted on this site. Anyway I have an older home (60 plus years). Two of the 4 walls are covered with wood siding (each siding is about 9 wide x 7 high). Some of the siding is warped, cracked, or just plain old. I want to replace some of it. The 2 questions I have are: (1) What is the best way to remove the older siding? I read elsewhere that they suggest using a slater ripper or slater bar. This thing looks pretty destructive for replacing siding, but what do I know. Others suggest using a small pry bar and a hack saw blade to cut the nail. I want something that is somewhat quick, easy to use, and it does the job properly. (2) The other question is what do you suggest as replacement siding? Is it advisable to use the type of siding they sell at the large retail outlets for roof shingles? Thank you Welcome to the forums!! Before you start, see if you can obtain the replacement materials. Nothing would be worse than doing a demo, just to find 60 year old wood can't be matched up. Generally to remove siding of that age, and of wood, either a reciprocating saw with a metal blade or a Multimaster is used to shear off the nails to where the siding can be slipped down. Now, you need to clarify the size. 9 x 7 ain't very big. I am assuming this is clapboard type siding 9 feet long, not inches. Maybe you could post a few pictures of your project so we can see what you see. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html It sounds like you must have vertical 1x10 tg v-groove siding. That stuff has a tendency to warp, bow out and split. Depending on whether or not you want to save any of the old siding, you may or may not have to be careful in ripping it off. If you are just wanting to remove it, a wrecking bar and hammer is probably all you need. Maybe a cat's paw to dig out a few of the face nails will help too. Getting the first piece off will be the trick, so identify which piece was the last one installed (should be ripped down to size) and remove that piece first. Then just work your way down the wall, getting behind the siding and prying outward to loosen the nails. If you are thinking of removing just a few sections, and replace with an accent strip of wood shingles, or something- then you would probably take a skilsaw and rip a piece in half vertically so that you could then remove both the tongue and the groove portions as two separate pieces. Then you'd have a starting point to start tearing off siding in either direction. I'm guessing you are thinking of using wood shingles to replace your siding? If so, that's fine. Usually you will want to paper the wall just as you would a roof, applying a layer of felt, then a couple rows of shingles, then a layer of felt, then a couple rows of shingles, and so on. Asking what kind of siding we think you should use is kind of a hard question. Kind of like asking us what color we think you should paint your house. Maybe some of those pictures like Larry mentioned would help. Thank you for your quick replies. I incuded a photo in Photobucket. It is a picture of the siding for the garage but the house is the same. I never took a piece of the wall siding off but it doesn't look like it is a long piece as in many feet long. The pieces appear alternating in length. The thing about taking these sidings off is that the nail is the upper portion of the siding and the siding immediately above the peice I want to remove overlaps the nail. So getting to the nail is the tricky part. I have no intention of saving the older siding. The siding is all painted so it is not a stained siding. In otherwords the original siding must simply match in size but not necessarily color. The siding does not look like TG but again I never took one off to examine it closely. I don't know if I can easily get a Skillsaw lie flat against the wall so that the blade can reach up to the area it needs to cut. Any thoughts? Thank you for your comments and suggestions Exterior Wall Siding :: IMG_2646.jpg picture by B_NR - Photobucket Oh goodness. That's not what I was picturing at all. I guess I need to go back to school to learn read better! Cedar shake siding, you can just start ripping on it with a pitchfork. (a roofing pitchfork... not a hay pitchfork! LOL) I'd lay a tarp on the ground then ram the forks under the laps and pry out with the handle. Some will break and splinter off the nails, others will pull right off. Don't get any nails in ur tires! Hello XSleeper: Thanks for the suggestion. But a roof pitchfork maybe a bit more agressive then I prefer. Since I am one of thoes Saturday repair man, my approach was to replace a few at a time. Easier for me to digest then doing an entire wall. Besides that the replacement siding are here and there. So that is why I would prefer to get into a few panels and remove it carefully so I can slip the new one in place. I guess I just have to slightly pry the piece up and get to the nail. I read somewhere that the prefered method was using a hacksaw blade or as Chandler suggested using a reciprocating saw and cut the nails. I saw on youtube a video where a guy was using a Slater ripper. It was for the roof panel but on another website they suggested using the same tool for wood siding. The Slater tool look a bit agressive and I was wondering if that could be applied to wood siding. I just not sure how destructive the tool is when removing the nails. As to replacement siding do you think I could use the same type they use for roofs? I believe the roof siding is made of wood and it looks similar. Thanks for input. James Hardie company makes HardieShingle Siding that is very similar in appearance to what you presently have. The plus side is this product does not absorb water, is dimensionally very stable, and, as a result of the last, does not required repainting nearly as often as wood. Usually, these products are special order through your local home center or big box store. Thanks tldoug. That is another option. I have to see how much siding I need to repalce and weigh (cost-wise) the options (wood vs. hardie). Though the hardie looks a bit heavy. Any idea what the cost of the hardie siding? Besides hardie anyone know what other alternatives there are to use as a cedar siding (must closely match existing at least in dimensions)? I am going to paint the siding so is there a none-cedar replacement (besides hardie) available? Seems to be a bit excessive to use cedar if it is painted. Thank you There's always vinyl siding and you can get cedar color tones. Hardiplank is quite expensive compared to vinyl. Certain teed has a line of products you may like as well. Oops, missed the dimensions comment. Vinyl only do-able if you doing an entire wall.
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Hello, new member. Question about R-22a is anyone using ES-22a? I need a charge is thinking about switching Split system 5 ton heatpump in Florida. Thanks for any input. R 22a?????????? ES22a????????????? Just where did you come up with that freon????? Any of the new freon is R410a that is out that I know of and that is a mix of two freons. switching Split system 5 ton heatpump in Florida. . Well first where are you down here . A heatpump here dont pay as you dont use it that much. Just the AC and strip heaters is all I have. Now R410a units are out and they work very good for heat and cool. but if you have a leak in them you do have to recharge the whole system you cant just put a few pounds of freon it it like with R22 and it cost a lot more for it. Now freon R22 will be around and made till 2030. So kick it all around how you want to go. ED Sorry if this is a bad post newbie here, just a consumer not a dealer of this stuff... I was looking for R-22 (I just don't trust too many people, a friend of mine works with AC unit's but do to Hurricane Charley he maybe a little behind in all his work) I heard about a new feron on a radio talk show / car repair shop that is Freeze 12 I never heard of this before either, but he talks about it highly. Looking for R-22 and seen this ES-22a, take a look see what you think the company makes that Freeze 12 also so I was looking to see what this may do with my AC unit? Lower head pressure cooler duct temps shorter run time, what the heck why not see this work. Just a post to see if this was snake oil or what. http://homerefrigerants.com/ http://befreetech.com/esmsds.htm This may give you something to think about. Sparks can make it explode and carbon monoxide can form. Like grandpa used to say...If it sounds to good to be true..it is. Well ok I'm no chemist but it all seemed to be safer then some other refrig gases used like R-134a not used in home AC as I know, but very common. You sure thats not the LP gas that some tried in the car's AC when they stopped makeing the R12. that was before R 134. If you dont think your new unit will make it to 2030 for sure go with the R410a. ED Is R410a more efficient then R22? Why is R410a used in new AC units, less ozone damage or what? Originally Posted by goofy8 less ozone damage Exactly right. Well I think we live in advance world (maybe the end of the world). So I think this is a new gas to try yes made from LPG (I think anyway) but not LPG. Sorry none of you's have tried it, none have send ya or na. So call me first I'm ordering it. They say dont try the LP gas in cars . so if you try it I guess it could be your end and home if you put it into that 5 ton. Now you know you cant mix freon dont you. R 134 is a safe freon to use but not in a home AC ED Ok, I hear your concern on Hydrocarbon Refrigerants. I did find this link that I found interesting..... Take a look http://www.macfreeze.com/referfacts.htm One concern may be the claim of much colder air from the registers. It may cause the evaporator to run at a temp. that is too low. If this happens, you will be freezing condensate onto the coil and icing it up constantly. I can't think of one good reason to mess around with it. Obviously if it carries the same placard as LP gas, it must be very close to LP gas. I know butane was used in a few blends but the boom factor makes blends like that undesirable. Manufacturers are very specific about what they want running through their compressors and some gasses will not carry the oil around as it should be. I view that refrigerant like I view the magnets you put in your shoes, the marketing is all that sells it. It can't make a reputation for itself and show up in supply houses. I'm surprised they didn't have the As seen on TV logo in the specs somewhere. Well I said more than I intended to but wanted to give a firm NAY. Ken KField, Your comment on refrig oil yes I don't want to harm a system, so this statement carried some weight with me. On the other hand (from link posted above) I found this to be very interesting I'm a little concern by the size of what I what to do (Home AC system) and the size of what they put it in (Refrigerator). Quote from http://www.macfreeze.com/referfacts.htm ------------------------------------------------------------------------ All major refrigerator manufacturers in Europe have universally adopted hydrocarbon refrigerants. The refrigeration systems of four out of five of the largest UK supermarket chains have been - converted over to HC refrigerants with the obvious advantages of being recognized as environmentally I conscious, while energy savings have been outstanding. Chinese refrigerator design and manufacture is being geared to hydrocarbon technology instead of the American HFC chemical refrigerants. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- hi, i retro-fitted my 2-ton 5 year old armstrong to hydro-carbons[ES-22A]. worked great all summer long .[so far] oil circulation isnt a problem either according to armstrong. in fact mineral oil is very soluble in propane, but might pose a problem at high temperatures {check danfoss websites} the air temp. at the indoor coil is about a 21 degree split. i have a fixed orfice used 5- 10 degrees superheat. Why don't you use the R-22 it was designed for. There are no approved drop-in replacements. as regards no drop in replacements there is nu-22 is compatible with the mineral oil. but has to be charged and recovered in its liquid state because its a blend. energy eff. is about 10 percent over r-22. the reason i went for L.P. gas at the time was the smog police restrictions on purchasing ozone hole gases without a hvac certificate. on remodeling the house i had damaged the lineset and so went the hcfc . so being a diy i changed the dryer oil { the unit sat the winter exposed to the atmosphere } and went with hydrocarbons. but has to be charged and recovered in its liquid state because its a blend. Sounds just like R410a If you have a leak you have to recover the charge left ,out of the unit and put in a whole new charge so the blend is right. Then no one will take the old freon there. As far as the LP dont forget it will pocket some where and then blow BANG ED the reason i went for L.P. gas at the time was the smog police restrictions on purchasing ozone hole gases without a hvac certificate. I seriously doubt he would be worried where to put the recovered blend.
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New refrigerantWhat do you guys think about the r22a safe refrigerant? This replaces r22. I am thinking about purchasing some for my home unit once I get it repaired. R 22 is not a safe freon if t...
Pricing on trane 2ton heatpump system
Pricing on Trane 2ton Heatpump SystemI had been having problems with my current 2ton heatpump system. Had a new company come up and check my system since the previous company did not seem to be he...
Pelican salt free system
Pelican Salt free systemFirst off, I just want to say how informative this forum has been on water softener units. I can't believe consumer reports has nothing listed on this subject. It also seem...