I have a Winchester electric Furnace with 20 KW heat kit. I need info on what wire to use from the main breaker panel and what size breaker to install for it. here is the info from the website: Requires dedicated double-pole circuit breakers, the appropriate gauge 240V wiring with proper polarity and ground. Register online for a 10 year limited parts warranty, including the heating element. Direct drive, multiple-speed blower motor is permanently lubricated for maintenance-free operation and the speed is adjustable to match the air flow requirement of the installation application Designed for use with both air conditioning and heat pump systems just match the width of the air handler cabinet to the width of the appropriate air conditioning or heat pump coil 20 kW heat strip with 60 and 50 amp double-pole circuit breakers 5 year limited parts warranty - 10 year limited parts warranty with online registration MFG Model # : WMA48-20 MFG Part # : WMA48-20
The supply circuit needs to be sized to 125% of the load. 20 kW is 83.3 amperes at 240 volts. 125% would be 104.7 amperes. That would require no less than #2 copper conductors IF the terminals at the furnace are rated to 75 degrees C. More likely as not the furnace is designed to use two branch circuits of 52 amperes each which would require no less than #6 copper conductors with 55 or 60 ampere circuit breakers. If the above is geek to you then you need to do some more studying of electrical systems.
The manual for that unit. northern tool/downloads/manuals/20428.pdf
Tags: winchester, electric, furnace, wiring, circuit breakers, limited parts, limited parts warranty, parts warranty, year limited, year limited parts, year limited parts warranty, conditioning heat, conditioning heat pump
Hello. I bought an old house and one of its rooms is equiped with a direct-vent gas furnace (Perfection-Schwank, Model ASV712RTN Version T). The house is built in 1950 but I suspect this furnace is a lot newer judging from its look. Last summer when I receive the house, the previous owner turn on the furnace to show me it was in working condition. But when I tried to turn it on yesterday (first time since then), it did not work. This was what's happened: I first lighted the pilot from through a small view hole, held the pilot button for one minute and the pilot stayed on all right. I then turned the valve control knob to on and replaced the furnace housing. The problem came when I turn the thermostat knob on the housing and nothing came on . The room temperature was around 60F. I re-read the lighting instruction on the inner side of the furnace front cover. One thing I could not figure out was that, as a last step of the pilot-lighting procedure, it says something like turn the power back on. I cannot find a power switch anywhere on the unit. In fact, I'm not even sure this furnace is connected to any power source! The bottom line is that the pilot light stays on but the thermostat won't turn on the furnace. Could someone please give me some potential root causes for this problem. Thanks in advance!
Hello: hhsieh Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site. Thermostat could be faulty. If there are wires going to it, disconnect them and reconnect them together. If furnace fires up, T-Stat defective. Replace it. If furnace does not fire up, may be a weak T-Couple (T-C) or Pilot Generator (PG) which allows pilot to remain on but not activate burner gas control valve. With either a T-Couple or PG, pilot flame has to be all blue. No yellow. Yellow indicates dust in the pilot assembly. Yellow pilot flames do not provide enough heat to either a T-C or a PG. Both must be very hot and have a cheery glow red on the tip to be producing full current. If pilot flame not clean or any doubts exist, blow out flame, blast entire assembly with canned air use to clean computer keyboards and relight. Might resolve the problem.
You say you cant find any power to this heater and you have a tstat . Then it must be powered by a Millivolt thermopile of some kind . Take and pull the thermocouple looking thing its the generator and take it with you to get a new one just like it. They come from 250 to 750 millivolts. ED
... If there are wires going to it, disconnect them and reconnect them together. If furnace fires up, T-Stat defective. Replace it. ... Dear Sharp Advice, Thank you for your advice! Regarding your suggestion quoted in above, are you suggesting 1. disconnecting reconnecting the wire(s) to check for loose connections? or 2. disconnecting reconnecting (shorting out) certain wires to bypass something (what?)? If it is case 1 is correct, how do you conclude T-Stat is defective? If it is case 2 you are suggesting, what wire(s) are to be disconnected and which are to be reconnected? (I do have fair electrical knowledge and have replaced my hot water heater TC a couple times, I think your clarification will help me understand the rationale behind this suggestion. Thanks again!
If you jump the R and W at the tstat and it come on then it is the tstat .If it dont, get a new T/C for it . That is what makes the electric for it to work. ED
Thank you, Sharp and Ed for all your valueable insights. I got the problem resolved and this was what happened: - The original pilot light was indeed weak (but it was blue not yellow ) - I pulled out the thermopile and heated it in my kitchen while measuring the voltage output. In 1/2 minutes it reached 600 mV. Although it has a dark burnt look, I deemed that it is operational. - I removed the Alum feed tube (from the gas valve to the nozzle assembly) and found it was ok (not blocked) - I tried to use a thin wire to clean out potential debris in the pilot nozzle (from the flame end) - I also used a 1.5V battery to excite the gas valve (by touching the TH and THTP screws) After I did all the above and put everything back, I got: - a 4-time bigger pilot flame than before. - burner worked under the command of the thermostat. My guess is that the most crucial step from the above actions was the attempt of cleaning out the pilot nozzle. The blocked nozzle did not produce enough flame (heat) to the thermopile and hence not enough mV to power open the gas valve. Any other insights? I have another question for the expert... When the leads of the thermopile are connected to the TP and TPTH terminal, does it matter which lead connected to which terminal? If so, how do you distinguish the leads? Is it DC current that flows in the thermopile? What would happen if one connects it in the opposite way? Thanks. hsieh
You got me there . You know over the years I have never looked what wire went on what off the millivolt generator. I have put a lot in. Keep and eye on that one they put out 250mV and 750 mV. SO 600 mV can be low. In the pilot just take some caned air and bend the straw to blow out the pilot venturi there. ED
Tags: thermostat, turn, furnace, pilot flame, T-Stat defective, blue yellow, defective Replace, disconnect them, disconnect them reconnect, disconnect them reconnect them, disconnect them reconnect them together, disconnecting reconnecting, find power, fires T-Stat
My submersible pump was over 20 years old, not supplying enough water to flush the toilet and take a shower along with blowing the circuit breaker on occasion. It was down 60 feet and I had to figure out unlock the pitless adapter before I could pull out the well. The pitless adapter was made by Wells Inc. in Ohio and can be unlocked by making a tool using a 6 foot, 1/2 steel pipe. Take the pipe, flatten one end leaving enough clearance for the inside to fit over a wingnut and make a handle on the opposite end. The flattened end goes down the 1 pipe that suspends the well and by turning counterclockwise the pitless adaper foot will go down. Make sure the water and pump is turned off before doing this. The well was pulled out using 2 U brackets and a come-a-long suspended from an extension ladder leaning against a tree. This method can bring the ell up at about 3 feet at time before needing to reposition the brackets which I used to hold the well on the side of the 4 well casing.
My parents house had pocket doors in the kitchen which I loved, so I have thought about installingl pocket doors in our bathrooms b/c they might make more sense there- the current scheme of doors in this house is pretty comical. I have questions about installation and where to begin. I think the biggest question is- are we looking at having to rip out sections of wall to install a pocket door or is there a way to do this with minimal demolition/ reconstruction? I know HD and Lowes sell the kits without the doors- so where do we get the door? Other than HD Lowes, any suggestions on purchasing pocket doors kits? How would you rate this type of project on a scale of very hard (hire someone) to very easy (definately a diy) Thanks for any info and ideas! This project is just in the preliminary stages and I don't want to get in over my head. TraceyB
Here is a howto on installing a pocket door. http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/pocketdoor.html http://www.handymanclub.com/document.asp?dID=811 Hope this helps.
First its like what can you do,to say hard or not? The first thing is would this door be in a bearing wall?Do you have to put a header up there. How do the joist or rafters run over the top of the wall. Now where the door is now think of how wide the door is now, go that wide on the left or right of the door for how you want it to slide. If you cut the wall out there, is there any electric or water pipes that you will have to move? What Home Depot And Lowes have is what you use for this . The door you have is also the one you can use if you want. Hope this helps ED
Ed's right on the money. determining whether or not this should be a diy, would really be decided by your skill set time frame. It could be done by an experienced diyer, but I wouldn't recommend it for a first time home improvement job. This should be thoroughally thought out before you ever begin and it will be messy. There's my $.02 worth.
For the options on the hardware go to johnson hardware's web site at http://www.johnsonhardware.com/ Stanley has some hardware available now, but the cheap open side rail they are selling is how pocket doors got a bad name. You want the 'C' shaped track with the three wheel bogeys. They cannot come off the track accept at the end when you want them to. The site also has exact dimensions for the track widths and typical wall cross sections. The biggest problem is that in a standard 2x4 wall you cannot have any electrical boxes where the pocket is on either side.
Tags: pocket, doors, pocket doors, Hope this, Hope this helps, pocket door, this door, this helps, where door
I recently tried to start a load of clothes. When I did I noticed that the washer was leaking from the back left side onto the floor. Figures, everything always goes to Haiti in a handbasket when HE (my husband) is away. I was wondering if anyone had any advice at all, I mean ANY. I am pretty handy. I am also very cheap. I was weighing my option for calling a repair man, trying to fix it myself, or flat out getting a new machine. My washing machine is about 13 lucky years old has never given me an ounce of trouble. That is until my husband deploys. I appreciate anything. Thank you in advance.
Hello soldiers wife and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site. That leak may not be in the machine. May be one of the hoses going into it. Look to find out where the water is acutally coming from. If it is on a hose from the faucet going behind the machine, the hose can easily be replaced for low cost. Once you determine precisely where the water is leaking from, use the rply button to advise. Other members posting replies in this forum may also have ideas, suggestions and helpful info to provide you so you can do it yourself.
my husband says its sounds like the pump-Maytags don't have tub boots, but seals-everywhere-he works only on GE's - just thought I'd give you what I could-
Thanks for the welcome. I checked and rechecked to realize that the water leak is coming from somewhere inside of the washer. It will drip out the back and the left side. I tried to do a little trouble shooting myself. (which was difficult because those darn washers are heavy to move and get behind!) I noticed (not sure if it even means anything or not but) it seems to only leak with hot water, not cold. Not sure if it is relevant or not. Thanks again for the advice. Originally posted by Sharp Advice Hello soldiers wife and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site. That leak may not be in the machine. May be one of the hoses going into it. Look to find out where the water is acutally coming from. If it is on a hose from the faucet going behind the machine, the hose can easily be replaced for low cost. Once you determine precisely where the water is leaking from, use the rply button to advise. Other members posting replies in this forum may also have ideas, suggestions and helpful info to provide you so you can do it yourself.
Miss Grace, how is Texas these days? My husband and I are from Houston orginally. The military transplanted us here and boy do we miss home. Thank you and your husband for the advice. I am just trying to weight my options so I don't call a repair man for an issue that is simple fix I could do myself or the machine flat out needs to be replaced. Thanks again Originally posted by Grace Elliott my husband says its sounds like the pump-Maytags don't have tub boots, but seals-everywhere-he works only on GE's - just thought I'd give you what I could-
I noticed (not sure if it even means anything or not but) it seems to only leak with hot water, not cold. If it is only leaking with hot, check the water inlet valve at rear of machine where the hoses connect. Top left rear facing it. If it is leaking and running down the left side, it is wrong side for the pump unless it running across the floor and out the left side. If it was the hose, I think it would leak all the time. Sounds like the hot side has gone bad on the inlet valve. You can save several $ by fixing this yourself. Tilt it back and look for two screws, near each corner on the bottom front. Remove these screws and pull bottom toward you. It should lift off the clips on top. Run the machine ( carefully, moving parts! ) and see if the leak is actually coming from the left rear and from somewhere up high. First try cold then hot. If it leaks on one and not the other, I would say it is the valve. Be sure to unplug the machine if you decide to change this part. Also might want to mark where the wires go back to be sure you do not reverse the hot and cold. P.S. Thank You and Hubby.
Thank you for the advice. My plate is full today, being in school I have an essay to write and homework to finish. Saturday will be my fix it day. I will try the things you said and see what I come up with. I am almost positive it is not the hoses, because there is no water on the outside of the machine. It only leaks from the inside showing up at the bottom of the washer on the left side and the back. If the inlet valve has gone bad would it be leaking exclusively inside of the machine? Thank you so much for the advice. I am so stubborn, independent, and cheap I want to add this to my list of Handylady tricks I can perform! he he The knowledge y'all are passing along, gives me the confidence to try this repair job myself. On behalf of my husband and myself....thank you for showing you care. It makes his job and the hardships we all endure easier. It's nice to see support of our troops finally! He does it not for the pay that is for sure but for his love of our great country!
Hi: soldiers wife Remove the back cover of the machine. Look for evidence of water leakage. There are hoses inside, parts that carry water as well as fittings and connections. The water leakage evidence should be visable. If not, wash a load and watch for where water leakage occurs. Just look. Do not touch since there will be electrical current supplied. Once you determine where the leak is, allow the machine to finish the load. Unplug the washer, post back where you see the water coming from. Explain in full details if needed be. If it is a hose, remove and replace. Parts are available at local appliance parts stores listed in the phone book. Sharp Advice
Hi soldier's wife-I wish my husband would sit down and write this! He can fix anything-except computer anything-one trick I've seen him do is put a cardboard under washer to determine exactly where the leak is coming from-this may be too little too late-but when I asked him last night what he thought about your problem he immediately responded w/the pump. (I actually know what a tub boot is and looks like-they get holes in them and leak, naturally-and since Maytag does'nt have them, he guessed the pump. He has rebuilt many a pump-taken pumps off other old washers also instead of buying out right. When he comes home I will try to get more out of him before Saturday. He did say he does'nt like to work on Maytags-FYI-but has fixed many for his friends...
Hi-caught my husband during his lunchbreak-he asked does it leak when filling up? washing? spinning? (fillingup=very possibly water fill valve or hose that goes from WFV into washer)(washing=possibly center tubshaft seal)(spinning=shaft seal or pump) Stay on scene to determine when leaking. If just drip-use shallow pie pan to catch. He said usually a thirteen yr. old machine might have rust hole in outer tub (he's fixed w/glue before), but unless it's the pump, hose, waterfill valve, get another machine because something else is going to happen. Go to laundromat if can't get one right away and consider if you paid $300 for one 13 years ago, that's just $30 a year. You can take this or leave it of course, but he said if you are happy w/Maytags, get another one-the newer GE's (after 1996 not good machine.) Of course, he suggests frontloaders-they are twice as expensive but very low maintainance (sp?) for years and years. His last words going out the door...if leaks after filling it's part of system that's filling the washer=hose,wfv or tubfill hose. (My two cents=if you use the cardboard, I've seen him pull it out VERY slowly to ascertain amt/spot) also, I asked him why he said he does'nt care to work on Maytags=too complicated. If it's the transmission shaft seal, you can't fix-don't hire anyone to fix-get another machine. Hope this is helpful-try (us) again after narrowing down cause, etc.
you need to go ahead and lift the top up to really be able to see what is going on. Once the front is taken off you can access the 2 hex-head screws, 1 on each side on front that hold the top down to the side panels. I believe it is a 3/8 hex-head. you can use a socket wrench to do this. Now you will be able to lift the top and see where the water is really comiing from. Me thinks it could be the little nozzle just before the water enters the tub. Dont remember the name of it but it does go bad and will create leaking situation. Good Luck.
I think you will find that the pump is on the right front ( facing the washer ) on this machine. I also think you will find the water inlet valve has only one hose that fills the machine. One hose going to the machine and only leaking with hot water ( if that is the case ) points to the hot selonid on the inlet valve. The cardboard will give a good indication of the area the water is coming from. Me? I would do as suggested and raise the top. 5/16 nutdriver works for me. If you decide to raise the top, don't let the door just flop open. Tape it or hold it shut for it to run with the lid raised. Might even tilt the washer back against the wall and look under it. You sholud see 2 belts. The shorter one going off to the right ( I think ) works the pump pully. Look for signs of water near it. But, unless it is leaking and running across the floor to the left rear or is being slung by the belt, I doubt that is the problem. Seems like I may have seen some older ones with the pump on the left, but they were at the front. Need to ascertain if it is actually only doing it on one temp though. Might save some time.
I just wanted to send out a thank you to all of you for your advice. My washer of 15 years is now working like a charm. My in-laws came for a visit recently and helped me out tremendously. Through your advice, some handy dandy work, and a $15 part (wish i could tell you which one it was but I am not that smart...it was blue and I think the hoses hooked into it) I am back in business! Washa-washa-whasha I appreciate all of your words of advice and encouragement. It is never easy to tackle something like that alone. Thank you so much for helping me through my husband-less period. It has meant the world to us both! Take care everyone and thank you again! PS we still have a ways to go so I might be back...old Murphy's law is kicking and something will give out again soon!
Tags: maytag, washer, leaks, where water, coming from, inlet valve, left side, leaking from, left rear, machine hose, Once determine, soldiers wife, water leakage, with water
I do volunteer maintenance at my small church and it has a ~1000 gallon baptismal fount that is fed by a 50 gallon water heater. We would like to have the water lukewarm, but it is hard any time of the year, but especially when it is below freezing outside. Our method for 50+ years is to dump ~200 gallons of hot water at a time, then let the water heater reheat. Slow and not that effective. The best solution I have seen is a instant water heater, but we have electric only and these are inefficient. The next option is a recirculating pump on top of a water heater, but this is more involved then we have time and budget for. Lastly, some have thought that a resistive coil that is dipped into the water is a good option, but I find it hard to believe that this is feasible. Any thoughts?
Wow... this may well be the most unusual request yet seen here! First, do NOT let anyone rig up some kind of resistive coil... I don't want to read anything about electrocutions at a church... PLEASE! You want to BAPTIZE them, not EX-communicate them! I'm actually somewhat surprised that these same people didn't also suggest that you build a wood fire under the font! Your font is normally emptied after use, then refilled as needed? (makes sense)... and that it is (obviously) outdoors? If I were to investigate this myself, I think the first thing I would look into would be a swimming pool heater, but again, you are talking about a significant expense... I don't think you will be able to do this on a tight budget.
We have a contract for a customer that requires us to use hot water to clean the coils. ( which is a bad idea) we have an instant propane heater on a hand truck the bottom of the truck we use a propane tank from a gas grill! Hook up the hose and let it go. This should work for you.
Resistance heater-wise you might loook into stock tank water heaters, but I don't know about the efficiency or how much of a dent 1250 watts of heating would provide in the chilliness. Plus you would need a nearby GFCI outlet. Another thought: Insulate the tank better?
Lastly, some have thought that a resistive coil that is dipped into the water is a good option, but I find it hard to believe that this is feasible I used to go to a church that used one of those. It wasn't something rigged up but was store bought specifically for that purpose. I don't know where it was bought or how much it cost. It plugs into a 220 socket and will warm the water up nicely - usually plugged in 24 hrs before the baptismal service. Common sense dictates that you unplug the heater and remove it before anyone enters the water.
I'm glad (I guess...) that I have he most unusual request yet seen here. To clarify, the concrete font is indoors, but it rests on the ground in a crawl space, and sits at ground level on a raised stage. Therefore, the outside of the font is exposed to cooler air. Secondly, I found a link to some immersed resistive coil heaters. Electric Immersion Water Heater 240V just so you don't think I'm crazy. As marksr mentioned, it is recommended that you remove the heater before baptism... The immersion heater is a 120/240v. However, if I'm going to rewire for this heater, I'd rather rewire (in the furnace room) rather in the crawl space for the immersion heater. However, the portable tank for the instant heater is a very intriguing option. I'm going to look into that further. Thank you all for the great suggestions! I'll keep looking into it and let you know how it goes.
Tags: needed, heat, baptismal, font, resistive coil, water heater, believe that, believe that this, believe that this feasible, coil that, coil that dipped, coil that dipped into
Hey Gang , I just Moved into this house and it has 3 of these windows 2 of them have 8 glass blocks and one has 6 glass blocks.. it looks like they are in a Vyn.frame, but then again look like they are just put together with clean silicone caulk... my question is this.. I want to go and get 3 vents to replace 2 glass blocks to get some fresh air into the house and these rooms, whats the best way to remove the clear silicone and doing so without breaking the glass itself ? Thanks.. heres a pic of one of them.. Craig sorry for all the spelling errors.. my spell check doesent want to work.. grrrrrrr
Under the silicone is a grout product, OR a plastic frame piece. You won't know until you get there. If it is grout just grind it out on both sides and remove the block. If it is plastic, you have a new ball game. It is like a plate that goes all the way across the block below. Remove the silicone and cut the plastic lip on both sides all around the block. It should pull out fairly easily. Be sure to seal your vent back in properly to prevent water leaks.
hey Chandle, Thank you.. I have a feeling that these are JUST siliconed all the way through... that would be better for me , the person that had the house beofre me was a builder and had access to all kinds of things.. the silicone on them isnt for leaks, i have a feeling thats how he put them together.. but thats alot of thick silicone.. whats the best wat to remove it ? gotta feeling this ones going to be Time Consuming... lol
The only way I know to remove sound silicone caulk is to cut and peel - it's slow going
hey Thank you for the reply.. i took a Stanley folding knife (sharpe as a tac ) and started sliceing into the clear Silocone.. it cut like butter... I have a feeeling it will come out smooth because these windows are a homemade design and put together.. meaning that someone cut some vyn. frameing and just put these glass blocks in and siliconed them together... so im off to the Blue store to get some vent windows.. im wondering if i should put 2 in on the 8 glass block ones or not.. one at each end ? cant ever get enought fresh air right ? any thoughts ? craig
Our eldest son installed these vents in his basement windows as part of the original replacement work. He only put two in one window, and it has at least 36 block spaces. The others are all 12 or 15 block spaces, and they have one vent each. That's in Chicago, and the cross-breeze is something wonderful when you crank a few of them open!
Tags: glass, block, window, vent, glass blocks, best remove, block spaces, both sides, have feeling, house these, like they, silicone caulk, them together
Does anyone have experience with the item below? Shark Fin External Cellphone Antenna Passive signal repeater extends the range of your cell phone and improves signal quality without directly connecting to your phone Reduce dropped calls and static noises and help to stabilize High performance glass mount design works through the glass without any drilling. Installation takes only a few minutes. Mounts on rear window. No cable connection required. The shark fin mounts on the outside as shown in the picture to the left. A small coupling box mounts on the inside of rear wind shield. All mounting is done using the included self adhesive tabs. Be sure to follow the installation instructions by using the included alcohol pad to properly prepare the surface of the windshield http://www.factorydirectcellular.com...rk-antenna.htmhttp://http://www.factorydirectcellu...rk-antenna.htm Thanks in advance for any help!
I have only heard of these being referred to as snake oil, meaning they are no good and don't work. Click image: Image courtesey of alternative wireless.com I use this type in our rural area and get nearly double the range when the antenna is mounted on a pick-up truck roof. There are many places to buy these and if you look at your cell phone you may have a jack available under one of those rubber plugs to plug it in to. I have gone through a few cell phones in the last few years and made sure the phone I get has the external antenna connection. My current phone has it on the side and my previous one needed the battery cover removed to access it.
I'm wondering what kind of cross-talk issues the wireless repeater has, and how it adapts to the different systems and frequencies. How does it know that it's supposed to increase the signal strength of your phone, and not the phone in the car in the next lane? There's a lot to be said for wires. I've always looked at wireless products as a trade-off of convenience over reliability. Cell phone dropout is bad enough without throwing yet another wireless device into the mix. Besides, how good can it be for $23? And if it's really repeating an RF signal 24/7, it has to consume batteries like a thief.
Rick, I have seen one of these things up close and there are no batteries, it is not a powered device. They receive a signal on the inside pick-up and magically transmit to the antenna glued on the other side of the vehicle's window. It's really only there for looks. The one below is a powered relay and is similar to one that is available in our area except the receiver on ours can be several feet away from the cell phone. One like this will boost transmitting power but I am unsure how well the phone will receive a weak signal. Click image: Image courtesy of alternative wireless.com
Hello all, I would like to build a stucco privacy wall around my property. Mainly the back yard and sides of the house. I need a little help on construction methods. Can someone lead me in the right direction? Possibly a web site spelling out the details on building such a wall. I'm looking for a wall height of about 6' - 7'. Thanks in advance
Hi, We will glad to help, but we'll need some information about what are you calling a Stucco privacy wall You can build a wall with concrete, bricks, blocks, and after you can put stucco on it. Other question: did you confirm with your Building department if you can build such a wall? Best
I am also considering building a stucco wall around our house. We live in the East Mountain area of Albuquerque, NM and we have a cattle fence on the property line, but we would like a wall closer to the house to protect our dogs from coyote attack. I only know a little bit about building walls. The first question to answer is building material. I'm planning on using concrete block. I'm guessing that this will be the best value in the strength vs. cost trade off. The second question is what is the best size footer. This would be easily answered in a basic construction book, or by a local building supply center. I don't know a lot about construction, but I do know that you don't want to skimp in this area, because it will affect the life of your wall. You should also find out about what level you should place a footer to avoid problems from freezing ground (if this is an issue in your area). I don't think it's all that difficult to lay block, as long as you recognize that your physical strength will be a major factor in how much you can acomplish in a given time frame. Start in the corners, and repeat these words in your mind until it becomes a mantra, plumb and level, plumb and level, plumb and level.... Also, you should be sure to learn how much mortar to use with each block, so you get a good bond. You'll also run into a problem with keeping fresh mortar and stucco if you plan to work by yourself. It might get expensive to rent a cement mixer for the amount of time it will take to do this as a do-it-yourself project. It's popular in our area to build windows in walls using things like metal wagon wheels and other unique framing material. We also plan on adding niches, ledges, and embedded hook to display and hang decorative artwork. Wer can get away with that in our area because New Mexicans are drawn to both art and unique, quirky design. Hope this helps
Tags: building, stucco, privacy, wall, plumb level, about what, area because, level plumb, level plumb level, plumb level plumb, plumb level plumb level, privacy wall, such wall, wall around
Hey guys, I'm trying to find a better product to seal a stamped concrete walkway. It looks like red pavers with the concrete edging making it look like pavers. The original contractor wanted me to use TIAH: Tiah Acrylic Concrete Sealer It lasts for about a year, then fades pretty bad. One time I did a reseal before waiting long enough after pressure washing and had a real bad blush, so had to strip that and start over. But when done properly, I am still onlygetting a year out of a reseal before it looks bad again. Wondering if someone knows of a better product. It is used just a small amount, we normaly use the door inside the garage to enter the house. I am careful with it, normally any snow removal is done by hand with an all-plastic shovel. It is not blushed now, just looking dull. Gilly
The product isn't bad, it's just that your expectations are too high. Clear sealer is like clear paint. On a horizontal traffic surface it gets scuffed and scratched by your feet and the grit your shoes are carrying. It begins to look dull, just like if you used sandpaper on it. The common thought is to just apply more sealer over the top. This is compleely wrong. You're just building he layers up too thick and it will absolutely cause blushing because the moisture trying to evaporate out of the concrete hits the sealer barrier and can't get out. Then it turns white. To rejuvinate what you've got without adding another layer, buy a few gallons of xylol at a hardware or paint store. Pour it in a large METAL pail. Use a natural bristle acid brush (any hardware store. Make sure it's natural bristle because plastic ones will melt in the xylol)) on a broom handle and dip it into the pail. Apply a brushful at a time, scrubbing it around in a circular motion. Move quick because the xylol will evaporate quickly on the surface. When it does, your sealer will again be crystal clear without need for further work. If you don't believe me, try it on a small spot. You'll be amazed with the results. If you want it to be less slippery, mix a little shark grip (sherwin williams paint store) with the xylol, or use a salt shaker to sprinkle it on the surface immediately after the scrub when its still wet. It does'nt take much. Post back with your results. It will help others in the future. If there is no blushing now, you can simply use a pump-up garden sprayer to liberally spray xylol on the surface. No scrubbing needed. It will bring your sealer back to new looking also. However, the sprayer will be toast in no time because the xylol will eat the seals and gum up the sprayer. A metal sprayer is best, but if it's a small area a $15 plastic one from Lowes will work too(for a short while). Then you can just throw it away. I would do either of these operations in the evening when it's cooler so the xylol doesn't evaporate too quickly. Good luck.
Pecos, thanks for the reply. I think the couple times we did refinish with TIAH that we didn't have ideal conditions. We had pressure washed it and then think we didn't wait long enough for it to dry out. I also think it might have gotten too hot when we refinished. I read that we can't change bases without totally stripping the TIAH off. I think we might have enough TIAH left to give it another coat or maybe two. The last time I did it I went through a lot of Xylol to strip it off. So how would it sound if I just damp-sponged it, just to get the dirt off, then a coat of TIAH early in the morning, just when it's getting light out, then maybe another one at dusk the same day? And make sure it's during a dry spell so we know the concrete isn't saturated at all? Wife thinks the walk isn't used enough to have a real wear problem, but thinks the finish is getting affected by the sun. It is as wide as a normal sidewalk and maybe 20 feet long? It's curved also. Oh and an odd note to add; It is this colored stamped concrete, and this winter I noticed the botton layer of snow, when I shoveled, was tinted red, same color as the concrete.........
If you're seeing red in the snow, then it probably does need to be re-sealed. You should be fine doing it the way you described, but if it looks good after the first coat, I wouldn't apply another because of the over-build up of sealer I talked about before. Good luck.
Tags: reseal, stamped, concrete, walkway, because xylol, because xylol will, better product, evaporate quickly, Good luck, like pavers, long enough, might have, natural bristle, paint store
Vinyl fencing is a less expensive alternative to both wooden and chain link fencing. Vinyl fencing will still provide a barrier for your yard, as well as adding value to your property. Though vinyl fencing is durable against the elements, the posts are hollow and can suffer damage more easily than wooden or chain link material. Hitting a vinyl fence post with a lawnmower or a stray baseball can crack the surface, or even break a hole through it. Fortunately there is a quick way for most repair work you will likely have to do.
Instructions
Repairing a Leaning Vinyl Fence Post
1. Dig out the soil around the side of the fence post to which it is leaning. If the post is leaning toward the right, dig out the soil around the right side of the fence post.
2. Push the fence post upright once you have removed enough soil. Brace the fence post in place with a 2-inch by 4-inch board, 24 to 36 inches in length. Place the board firmly between the post and the ground until it stays put.
3. Fill the opposite side of fence post with some of the soil you removed. If the post was leaning to the right, there will be an open cavity on the left side. Fill in the cavity will soil and pack it down tightly with the back side of your shovel.
4. Pack the entire area around the post base with the remaining soil. Fill in any remaining holes around the base and then pack the soil down.
5. Remove the board used to prop up the post.
Repairing a Hole in Vinyl Fence Post
6. Clean the area around the hole with a damp cloth or rag.
7. Sand the area around the hole, approximately 2 inches in diameter around the hole.
8. Place the nozzle of a can of expanding foam insulation inside the hole. Squirt a quick burst of expanding insulation foam into the hole. Spray enough foam into the hole so that it just begins to dribble from the hole. Wipe away any foam that drips on the post below. Allow the foam to dry overnight.
9. Cut away the excess dried foam from the fence with a hacksaw. The foam will be extremely hard after it is dry; you will not be able to peel it away. Use the saw to cut the foam until it is even with the surface of the fence post.
10. Sand the foam inside the hole so it is slightly lower than the surface of the fence post. Apply some plastic body filler compound on top of the foam inside the hole. Level the filler compound with a putty knife so that it is even with the fence post surface. Allow it to dry for one hour. Paint the repaired area with spray paint to match the rest of the post.
Few things make someone feel confident like a pair of new shoes. Until the unworn soles cause them to slip, of course. Many shoes develop better traction over time, as wear erodes the sole, allowing it to grip the ground effectively. Though slippery new soles may seem like the hidden cost of a new pair of shoes, wearers can treat new footwear several ways, to minimize the chance of slips and spills.
Scuffing
Scuff the soles intentionally before wearing the shoes for the first time. Put the shoes on and walk to a concrete surface, like a driveway, sidewalk or paved road. Walk in halting, little steps while scuffing the bottoms of the shoes against the abrasive surface. Thirty to 60 seconds of intentional scuffing should texturize the soles enough that they are no longer prone to slipping. Excessive force is unnecessary. The scuffs do not need to be deep gouges.
X Marks the Spot
Get a large pair of scissors. Standard household scissors are suitable, as are kitchen shears. Hold the scissors wide open and steady them in that position. Turn the shoe over so that the sole is facing up. Carve an X-shape in the broadest part of the sole. Apply pressure relative to the thickness of the sole. The scissors should cut the surface, but not through it. Do not press them into the shoe with such force that they cut into the sole.
Duct Tape
Tear a piece of duct tape that is shorter than the most broad part of the sole. Affix the tape to the bottom of the shoe. The tape will provide enough texture and traction to keep the shoe from slipping. Use a piece of duct tape that is smaller than the width of the sole so that the sole erodes around the tape. This will allow the wearer to remove the duct tape for aesthetic purposes, without the slippery quality of the sole returning in the tape's absence.
Adhesives
Apply an anti-slip product to the sole of the shoe. Many footwear and foot care manufacturers market products to remedy this problem. Some wearers may dread the thought of inflicting damage on a new shoe intentionally, even if it is only the sole. Most anti-slip products are adhesive patches, like stickers for the sole of a shoe. Use small coin-sized products and place them sporadically on the sole so that the surface wears naturally around the adhesive patches. Once the sole is sufficiently worn and textured, you can remove the adhesives for aesthetic purposes, if you desire a clean sole.
Improve the look of any room by adding a textured ceiling. Refresh old designs with a different texture or create one from scratch using drywall joint compound. Buy joint compound in 5-gallon buckets. You will need to add water to thin it for application to a ceiling. You don't even need to add paint if you want a white ceiling, and it will look good for many years.
Instructions
1. Prepare the room from top to bottom. Remove molding from the perimeter of the ceiling. Use a putty knife to gently pry molding loose, then remove nails. Remove any ceiling fixtures and wrap exposed wires with electrical tape or cap them. Place drop cloths or plastic sheeting across the floor to catch drips.
2. Mix 2 quarts of water into a 5-gallon bucket of joint compound. Use a drywall mixer attached to an electric drill to blend thoroughly. The mixture must be just the right consistency, or it will drip from the ceiling.
3. Pour some of the mixture into a paint roller tray. Screw a handle extender onto the roller you will use. Roll the compound onto the ceiling with a three-quarter inch nap paint roller. Roll an 8-foot square at a time in one direction. Next, cross roll it to give the finished look. Do another 8-foot square and try to erase any visible lines between the two squares. Alternatively, you can use a round brush on an extender to press circular designs into the compound after it's rolled on. Blend the edges between each section by stomping a design with the round brush along borders of each section.
4. Finish the ceiling by going around the edges to roll or stomp a pattern all the way to the walls. Use a flat paint brush to work small corners or blend in stubborn places around floor-to-ceiling bookcases or near a fireplace chimney. Dampen a rag with water and carefully wipe along the edges to get all compound off the walls or woodwork.
5. Let the ceiling dry for 24 hours. Reconnect the light fixture and replace any type of molding you removed during the process.
Tips Warnings
A long-handled extender that screws into a brush handle or paint roller will enable you to work without having to stand on a stool or ladder. A standard flat paintbrush can help you reach into corners with the compound. It's easy to clean joint compound off brushes or yourself with liquid soap and warm water.
Turn off your power, at least to the room in question before removing or replacing light fixtures.
Very few people can create a good design without practice. Use an old piece of drywall or plywood to practice your technique for doing the ceiling. Putting up a textured ceiling is a project you want to complete all at one time. If you let part of the compound dry--and go back later to finish up--you cannot blend the edges properly.
The valve cover gasket on a Harley-Davidson Evo Blockhead engine is traditionally called the rocker cover gasket. However, the gasket works the same way a valve cover gasket works on an automobile, acting as a seal between the rocker cover and the rocker box. The valves are inside the rocker box. If the gasket leaks, oil will leak through the seal and the engine will lose compression.
Instructions
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover onto the rocker box using a 12-point socket and ratchet. On some models, the rocker boxes may have Allen head bolts. If your Evo engine has them, use an Allen wrench.
2. Pull the rocker cover off the rocker box.
3. Pull the metal gasket off the rocker box and wipe the mating surface of the rocker cover and the rocker box with a clean rag.
4. Place the new metal gasket onto the rocker box and line up the holes for the bolts.
5. Place the rocker cover onto the rocker box and secure it using the four bolts, 12-point socket and ratchet.
6. Duplicate the process on the second cylinder if the rocker gasket leaks on that cylinder.
So you spent the afternoon whipping up a batch of thick, gooey fudge or rich chocolate truffles. They look tasty, right? But your stainless steel pot, well, it's not looking so good. Perhaps you were distracted by a breaking news report or got caught up in a phone conversation. However it happened, now you have a stainless steel pot covered in burned chocolate. Don't worry ... it's not as hard to remedy as it looks. With the use of a few simple household items, you can have that pot looking brand new.
Instructions
Baking Soda and Salt Method
1. Scrape away as much burned chocolate as possible using a strong, large spoon. Be careful to not scratch your pot.
2. Fill your burned pot a quarter of the way full with hot water. You can use more water if this does not sufficiently cover the burned area.
3. Add 1/2 to 1 cup baking soda and 1/2 to 1 cup of salt and stir with a wooden spoon. The amount will depend on the size of the pot. Be sure to add enough baking soda and salt to make the water cloudy.
4. Place the pot on your stove on high heat and bring to a boil. As the water boils, continue to stir the mixture. Use your spoon to scrape and loosen the burned debris. This typically takes about 5 minutes.
5. Pour the water and loosened debris through a colander. This will keep the burned debris from clogging your sink.
6. Scrub the pot with a scouring pad and hot water to remove the remaining debris. Rinse well with hot water.
Vinegar and Dish Soap Method
7. Scrape away as much burned chocolate as possible using a strong, large spoon. Be careful to not scratch your pot.
8. Fill the pot with enough hot water to cover the burned area.
9. Add 1 cup vinegar and 2 to 3 drops liquid dish soap. Stir well.
10. Let the pot soak for 24 hours.
11. Place the pot on your stove over low heat and periodically scrape the burned area with a wooden spoon.
12. Pour the water mixture and loosened debris through a colander to prevent your sink from clogging. If there is still a great deal of stuck debris, repeat Steps 2 through 5. Otherwise, simply finish cleaning the pot with a scouring pad and hot water.
Dentures that don't fit properly can be uncomfortable to wear and lead to future health problems. Wearers can expect some changes in fit, because as you age, you experience adjustments in gum and bone size. Ignoring ill-fitting dentures can result in mouth sores or even infections, so it's important to address the problem as soon as you notice the signs. Taking care of your dentures by brushing them daily and soaking them at night is a good way to reduce the risk of future problems. But, if you do feel discomfort, there are ways to relieve the pain.
Instructions
1. Reline your dentures. There are three types of relinement. Hard reline are periodic procedures where the acrylic is scraped away until a comfortable fit is achieved, a mold is made and new acrylic is fit to the dentures. Soft relines coat the acrylic with a permanent, cushioned resin that eases the contact on the gums. They are often done when the gums are too swollen to fit for a new pair. Temporary relines coat the acrylic with a soft resin until the patient can be fitted with a new pair.
2. Use a denture adhesive. Loose dentures produce friction against the gums that can result in soreness and may cause bleeding. Some people with dry mouth conditions may also experience slippage because of a lack of bonding. For application of a paste to upper plates, apply three short lines or a few small dots in the center. Lower plates only need a few dots on the ridge area. The trick to applying adhesive properly is using less than you think you need.
3. Have your dentures' teeth filed. Denture wearers can experience problems chewing food and continually biting their cheek or tongue. This can be the result of high spots in your dentures, which means the teeth are not even. Your dentist will be able to file these spots down to give you a better bite. If you suspect that you have high spots on your partials, remember to stay away from hard food. When preparing vegetables, for example, steam them for a softer consistency.
Tips Warnings
Massaging your gums helps alleviate some of the soreness caused by uncomfortable dentures by promoting blood flow.
Hot water can warp dentures, so soak them in warm or room temperature water.
Avoid sliding across the floor by using anti-slip pads.
When there is no grip on the soles of your shoe you can easily slip and fall. New shoes or dress shoes are particularly vulnerable since untarnished or soles that are covered in a finish are particularly slick. There are several methods for making your shoes safer by adding grip to the bottom.
Instructions
1. Purchase self-adhesive anti-slip shoe pads for the bottom of your shoe. Peel the backing off and stick the adhesive to the bottom of the forefront of your shoe. The anti-slip pads work similarly to non-slip bathtub adhesives and allow your shoes more traction when walking on floor, carpet or slippery surfaces.
2. Scratch the bottom of the shoe with a knife or large scissors. Cut shallow X marks into the soles on both the heel and front of the shoes, which helps the shoes to grip the floor better.
3. Rub the soles with sandpaper to scuff the bottom of the shoes, which helps make them less slippery. Use medium-grit sandpaper and rub it back and forth over the soles several times.
4. Chafe the soles of your slippery shoes against concrete on the sidewalk to scuff the bottom and make them grip the ground better. This is an ideal solution if you are already wearing the shoes and find them to be too slippery.
5. Apply masking or duct tape to the bottom of the soles, which will cover the slippery areas while also providing the shoes with grip. Stick pieces that are 1 to 2 inches long on both the heel and bottom of the front of the shoe.
The Dazzle DVD Recorder is a USB-powered device that allows users to copy videos from a camcorder, VCR or DVD player straight to DVD without the need of first copying the video to your computer. Dazzle DVD Recorders save on the time it normally takes to copy videos to DVD on your computer. To use the Dazzle DVD Recorder, you need to connect the device that is playing the video to the Dazzle USB device.
Instructions
1. Turn on the device that you want to connect to the Dazzle DVD Recorder.
2. Connect the component cables or S-Video cables to the Video Out or S-Video Out cable jacks and the Audio Out cable jack located on your device.
3. Plug the other end of the cables into the Video or S-Video and Audio jacks on the Dazzle DVD Recorder USB device.
4. Insert the USB cord attached to the Dazzle DVD Recorder into a USB jack on your computer. The setup is complete and you are ready to start recording your videos.
Tips Warnings
To use the Dazzle DVD Recorder, you need to install the Pinnacle InstantDVD Recorder software included with the device.
Geologists are a kind of geoscientist specializing in the physical history of the earth. A geologist studies rocks, how they were formed and the occurrences which have shaped them since their formation. A geologist must go through rigorous training in order to successfully work in the field. There are different qualifications for different areas and career paths, but some requirements are standard.
Instructions
1. Take science and computer classes in high school to prepare you for college work. Earth science, chemistry and environmental sciences classes are especially important for the would-be geologist.
2. Enroll in a bachelor's degree program at a college or university offering geology, geophysics or another geoscience program. Take the required coursework necessary to receive a Bachelor of Science degree.
3. Enroll in a master's degree program in the geosciences. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, most career opportunities will require a master's degree. You may be able to land an entry-level position with just a bachelor's degree, but it's best to get a master's.
4. Earn your doctorate if you want to obtain a teaching position, or if you want a high-level job as a geologist.
5. Determine whether licensure or certification is required in your state in addition to your degrees. Some states do not require this extra step, but many do, especially if you offer services to the public.
6. Find a job by searching online job boards or using connections you've made during your coursework. If you worked an internship as part of your educational experience, see if the firm is looking for full- or part-time geologists.
Though dentures are a blessing for people who have lost their teeth, over a period of time, they might not fit as snugly as they did. With your gums changing over the years, you may find it uncomfortable to keep your dentures in. You need to deal with pain from such ill-fitting dentures and sometimes even from brand-new ones.
Chewy Foods
Have soft chewy foods as opposed to crunchy, crusty kinds. Take the hard work load away from your dentures as much as you can. Stay away from hardened breads or meats; instead settle for soft fish, finely ground chicken with soft pasta and rice or soups, stews and puddings.
Massage
Rub your gums to get rid of the pain. You can hold your aching gums with your index finger and thumb or use a toothbrush with soft bristles in circular movements to rub away your pain. This massage will lead to stronger gum tissue that will make sturdy denture bases.
Denture Removal
Do not wear your dentures if they are excruciatingly painful. Remove them from your mouth till you meet your denturist for advice. This will give your gums a rest and let the tissue breathe freely. Cancel or postpone work or meetings if you cannot attend them without your dentures. But make sure to put them on an hour or so before visiting the doctor, as wearing them will give him a better idea of the cause of the irritant.
Rinsing and Medications
If the pain is unbearable, you could try using an over-the-counter dental painkiller till the time you meet your denturist. Rinsing your mouth with salt water also helps to provide relief from the pain. Salt acts as an antiseptic and helps fight infection in case your gums are wounded.
Fitting Adjustment
If your teeth have just been removed and your new dentures just fitted, then your gums may be too painful to adopt the new addition. Denturists will advise the use of a liner applied to the denture's underside to function as cushion till the gums are better equipped to handle the denture set.
Drug Management
Dried-up mouths and gums lead to discomfort with dentures. If any medicine, such as those used to control blood pressure or fight depression, dries up the inside of your mouth, talk to your denturist about options to control the situation.
Herbal Remedies
Cotton doused in gel of aloe vera and oil of eucalyptus can provide great relief from denture pain when rubbed directly on the gums. You also have the option of making a mixture by adding half a tablespoon of dried herbal goldenseal and half a teaspoon of baking soda to half a cup of lukewarm water. Then, cool and strain the mixture before rinsing your mouth with it. Such remedies help in soothing and healing of gums, leading to relief from denture pain. Another great rinse involves a blend of aniseed, peppermint leaves, myrrh tincture and boiling water. A mixture of clove powder and olive oil or a fresh fig placed directly on your sore gums can provide temporary relief too.
The self-cleaning oven feature on General Electric ovens makes clean-up easier. High temperatures reduce any baked-on food debris to ashes that are easily wiped out when the oven cools. Wipe up greasy spills to prevent the oven from smoking, and always open a window or run a fan to provide ventilation.
Porcelain-Coated Racks
You may leave porcelain-coated racks in a GE oven during the self-cleaning cycle, according to General Electric. The self-cleaning cycle won't damage them, but will burn food debris on them to ashes for easy cleaning.
Shiny Metal Racks
Remove shiny metal racks from the GE oven before cleaning, because the cleaning cycle darkens their surface. The racks may also become difficult to remove once they've been through a cycle.
Prevention/Solution
Wash shiny metal racks with an abrasive cleaner or steel wool, according to General Electric. If you leave the racks in the oven through a cleaning cycle and they become hard to slide or remove from the oven, wipe the edges of the racks with a light coating of vegetable oil.
What's the best (reasonably priced) tool to undercut door jambs for installation of laminate flooring? I've done a number of searches and there are lots of discussions regarding undercutting the jambs when installing laminate flooring, but what's the tool to do that? I'm doing 900 sq ft of floor, and have about 20 jambs to undercut. Figured I'd buy an undercut saw, then sell it used later. I've done a little looking at the big box stores and don't find them. Suggestions on types, brands, where to buy? Thanks
I'm not a flooring expert by any means, but the cheapest solution is a manual jamb saw. A jamb saw runs about $10-20 and is simply a long flat, very flexible blade saw, often with teeth on both sides of the blade to provide for faster rips or more finished work. If you've got a lot of jambs to cut and/or especially jambs in tight locations where it is difficult or impossible to use a jamb saw, I'd use a RotoZip with the ZipMate attachment. Probably will run you $100+ at the big boxes. I bought myself a refurbished unit - actually the basic RotoZip plus most of the available attachments - from an online retailer for about $50. At that price, you can afford to keep it! Not to mention, the variety of other uses you get with a RotoZip for around-the-house projects.
A great saw for this purpose is a Bosch Fine Cut Saw. It has a couple of different style blades, and you can cut clean into angles and corners. The kit runs about 150 bucks, and you will find other uses for this tool. You should be able to find this saw at big box stores that carry Bosch. I doubt if you will find a true power under cut saw at big box stores. It is really a specialty item and sells in the 3-400 dollar range. You can rent them at a good rental shop.
I just bought a manual Craftsman 3 blade saw. It includes a wood saw, japanese style 2 sided blade, and a drywall plunge saw. About $16.
I know you asked for reasonably priced, but... The Fein Multimaster is great. Not cheap, but very useful. It cuts out door jambs like butter. I also use it to cut out my airvents in my floor, and for tons of other things. I use it to cut out the notches on my hardwood right there to place under the jambs. Sooo helpful... It can be used for so many other projects as well. It really made my first hardwood flooring experience manageable. (You can always sell it on ebay afterwards, but I'm keeping mine...)Beer 4U2
Recently used a Dremel Multimax (Fein knockoff). It's very noisy, gets hot quickly, but cuts door jambs fast and easy. It's no Fein, but for $99 it might be something to consider.
Just FYI, Home Depot's tool rental has undercut jamb saws for under $30 per day.
Tags: undercut, door, jambs, tool, cuts door, cuts door jambs, door jambs, laminate flooring, other uses, reasonably priced, runs about
I have a 92' Ford Ranger XLT with a typical three point retractor seat belt system. Does anyone know where I can buy the buckle with release button part only? Maybe a website? It is an eight inch piece that comes out of the carpet/floorboard. I don't want to replace the entire seat belt system, just the buckle with release button receptacle. I want to avoid the dealership if possible, and I have never been able to find any part I needed at the junk yard. Thanks, Dave
any good ford salvage yard should be able to fix you right up. most i have dealt with around here can find almost any part in their inventory and or from another salvage if they don't have it in stock. life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies
Basically the same piece wore out on my jeep last year. I went to the junk yard [one where they let me look] They had a number of jeeps like mine but either they were missing the part or it was also worn out. I finally got the belt from the passenger side - it works great!! although I no longer get that annoying seat belt buzzer if I forget to buckle up
all seatbelt parts are warranted for life. dealer, no charge.
You can try out www.uneedapart.com. You will get emails from yards all over the country with prices.
Originally Posted by WTDR-DTY all seatbelt parts are warranted for life. dealer, no charge. Are you sure? I thought I read in the manual for my wife's car that the seatbelts were warranted for 10 yrs.
My seat belt would still be under warranty after 16 years? I just got one at the junkyard today for $25.00. Thanks for your responses
Tags: seatbelt, buckle, seat belt, belt system, buckle with, buckle with release, buckle with release button, dealer charge, junk yard, life dealer, life dealer charge, parts warranted, parts warranted life
Can someone please tell me what the difference is between proto tools and proto challenger tools? Do these challenger tools carry the same warrenty that proto tools carry? Thanks for the help.
Why not e-mail Stanley Works and ask? They own Proto. I have some Proto/Challenger stuff. Pretty good. Stanley is OK with responding by e-mail, you might just call them and ask.
Why not e-mail Stanley Works and ask? They own Proto. I have some Proto/Challenger stuff. Pretty good. Stanley is OK with responding by e-mail, you might just call them and ask.
Joe, I e-mailed them twise and they ignored me both times. I get waaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy much better customer service with harbor freight and sears is about half way in between.
Call them directly and ask. As I said, they are lackluster or OK with e-mails.
Unless they've changed recently they carry the same warranty. I used to run the purchasing and marketing for a large proto house. BTW most people THINK that all tool lines carry a 100% warranty of if it breaks we replace it. Not true of Proto, or probably anyone else. They don't warranty the following (and I've probably left some off) situations/occurences. Tools that have been abused, this includes PRYING with a screwdriver, punch or chisel. Along the same lines, breaker bars and ratchets that have had a cheater bar used on them, you didn't really bend that thing with your bare hands did you? Chrome sockets that have been used with an impact driver, the symptom is a split along the length of the socket and generally some rounding in the drive end. Broken ratchet mechanisms, they'll give you a head repair kit. Tools that get used up in use, such as punches, chisels. Torque wrench re-calibration. Of course if you've got a really good rep, he'll replace the stuff and write it up as something that really is warranted, wink wink, nudge nudge, say no more! Frank
Frank: Very true. However, that is why Sears eats most of the tool companies for lunch with Craftsman . They are pretty unbeatable with their warranty. Home Depot's Husky line is less broad than Sears and a lot of their stuff is coming from offshore---Sears stuff is still made here. I believe K-D/Danaher is their vendor. If not it's Stanleyworks (the same guys as HD). While I have seen some cheapness in the realm of Craftsman over the years, I must say they stand behind their stuff and replace it no questions asked. I have bought stuff at swap meets for a buck or two and brought it back for new stuff no questions asked. I keep my tools in great shape, and I even try to stick with the old stuff unless it's worn out. For example, older Craftsman screwdrivers are forged, newer ones are not. I really like the Professional Series Craftsman screwdrivers, the handle is really easy on your hands. LOL. The one that really gets me is The tool is warrantied until it wears out. I think Ridgid and one of the others has that warranty. Who determines when it's worn out? Shoot, I have tools from the 60's that have outlasted new stuff (I was born in 1971..lol). I have a vast array of manufacturer's tools in my various toolchests, mostly matched sets. I find that if it's American made from a decent company, for home use, it is more than adequate. But, you are right, I see some defects on my end (automotive parts) and you have to roll your eyes a bit at some situations .
Thank you both very much. I have an obcession with tools. I never get tired of talking about them or looking at them. You brought up one good point about proto, I have read that some stores will warrenty some tools but not all. That's what I like about craftsman, you get a brand new one without any hasle plus the price is great. Thanks again.
Mower 17, If you reall get off on hand tools mark your calendar and try to attend either (or both); the National Hardware Show, (in Chicago, IIRC usually in July or August). It fills almost every building that has the name McCormick on it. It covers a lot of stuff for home centers and hardware stores so you might see 30,000 square feet of gas grills and picnic tables but probably every tool manufacturer exhibits there. The Automotive Aftermarket Show (Big I), held in Las Vegas, last week of October or first week of November. It combines about 4 shows in one but it fills the Las Vegas Convention Center, The Sands Convention Center plus several 10,000 square foot tents outside the LVCC. It covers everything from customizing, hot rodding, car care, painting etc. So you might see a piston manufacturer from Bangladesh, but Proto and the other tool guys usually have HUGE booths. I used to walk both shows every year and I walked SLOW when I was doing it because I was either looking for new products to sell when I was in distribution, and new product lines to represent after I became an independent representative. STAFDA (Specialty Tool and Fasteners) show is sometimes pretty good but its geared toward contstruction trades and it's about $350 to get in, so you have to be REALLY INTERESTED. The first two probably cost less than $25 to get in, but both are held in towns that are fun to visit. Frank
Tags: proto, challenger, tools, that have, Proto Challenger, call them, carry same, Challenger stuff, Challenger stuff Pretty, Challenger stuff Pretty good
This may be a long story.....but I think it requires some history...sorry in advance! I have an older home built in 1900. It has a fieldstone/brick foundation and a concrete floor. About 30-40 years ago a 13'x12' addition was added to the side of the house with a concrete block foundation. There is a 2'x2' hole in the brick foundation to allow access to the crawlspace. When we bought the house 5+ years ago the building inspector told us to put a vapor barrier over the soil in the crawlspace to reduce humidity in the basement. Shortly after we bought the house that is exactly what I did. Way back then we had some water issues in the basement. There were no gutters and the soil around the addition sloped toward the concrete block wall. During some heavy rains we got some water in the basement. Nothing major, just some seepage through a few places in the foundation. I'm sure the soil under the crawlspace got wet as well. We installed gutters and improved the slope of the soil around the foundation. For the past 3+ years the basement has been bone dry. Okay....fast forward to today. I am trying to improve the insulation in the basement as it gets rather cold down there during the winter. Alot of the cold air comes from the crawlspace access hole. The room above the crawlspace also has really cold floors so I wanted to add some insulation between the floor joists. I will also be adding some rigid foam insulation against the concrete block wall in the crawlspace. Uh-Oh...PROBLEM!!! The job itself was misserable since there is only about 2ft of height to work with in there. But when I was finished and inspected my work I found.... MOLD!!! Okay... I look a bit deeper into it. The mold is underneath the plastic sheathing I put down. Apparently there was already some sort of an attempt at a vapor barrier in there. It had a tar-like coating on the soil side and the top side was more like papery-cardboard. The mold is on the topside of the old vapor barrier in between the plastic sheathing. Duh...moisture + paper + time = MOLD!!! No good deed goes unpunished I guess. I didn't even realize it was there when I did it 5 years ago. Ooooops....what these young kids do... So. I plan to remove the plastic sheathing and then remove the old vapor barrier. But what then? I imagine the soil has alot of organic matter in it from the past 40 years. Should I then install new plastic sheathing? If I do will the soil get moldy? Should I leave the dirt exposed? As far as I can tell it is dry in there and all the water drains away from it. THanks! And sorry for the long winded post!
What do you mean when you say As far as I can tell it is dry in there and all the water drains away from it. ? Is water entering the crawl space? If it is, the outer wall has to be sealed from the outside before anything else is done. That might be all that's needed. Then nothing needs to go on top of the dirt.
Sorry...its late and I should have clarified. Now that we fixed the soil slope issues and installed gutters, all of the rain water drains away from the addition. I don't see any easy way for water to go in. The soil seems dry in the crawlspace. Everything I read says a plastic vapor barrier over the soil is a good idea. I dunno...since there are no drainage issues or obvious ways for water to get in....it seems best just to let it breath. Thats what I'm trying to figure out. Leave it as bare dirt or cover it with plastic again. (this time without the old cardboard paper in between)
I'd leave it for now. Besides, you don't want to go back in there anyway.
I'd leave it for now. Besides, you don't want to go back in there anyway. Well the plastic vapor barrier that is in there and the moldy barrier beneath it is coming out. If putting a new barrier on top of the bare soil is the best thing to do...I'm okay with it while I'm in there. If leaving the soil bare and letting it breath is a good thing to do...I'm okay with that also. Just trying to figure it all out.
I would remove the old barrier leave it.
Is there any ventilation in the crawlspace? I don't know much about it but from what I've read, if you put down plastic and the crawlspace is unvented - you need to run a humidifier.
Crawlspace is connected to the basement via a 2'x2' access hole that is open. There are vents in the sides of the crawlspace for outside air but I have sealed them up. In my climate 90%+ humidity during the night is the norm, they would do more harm then good. If left open the entire basement gets humid. There is a dehumidifier in the main part of the basement. The basement stays in the 40-50% humidity range.
I think you are supposed to run a dehumidifier in the crawlspace if the vents are sealed. I'd be inclined to open up the vents and make sure there is a good seal where the opening to the crawlspace is.
Hmmmm. I don't think I could seal the opening to the crawlspace 100% because the steam pipes and electrical run through that opening. Another thing that concerns me is that if I seal the access hole and leave the crawlspace foundation vents open...the humidity will always be between 50-95% (outside humidity) in the crawlspace.
Maybe it's time to buy another dehumidifier
perhaps.....but the one that is in there now keeps the basement below 50%. I haven't checked the humidity level inside the crawlspace....but since the opening for it is 5 feet from the dehumidifier, I can't imagine it being drastically different. I'm more concerned about on what to do with the bare dirt floor in the crawlspace after I remove the moldy vapor barrier sandwich.
Put plastic down as a vapor barrier over the dirt, running it up the walls a foot or so and taping all the seams and the junction with the wall.
Thanks for your help guys! After some more inspection last night it seems the problem is a little worse than I thought. There is a little mold on the ceiling of the main part of the basement, but only around the perimeter. The mold is located on the 6x6 sill, joists and bottom side of the floor boards around the perimeter. It is a little worse adjacent to crawlspace room I don't know why this happened now and not in the 113 years the house was built prior to this. I've made many steps to reduce humidity and moisture in the basement. My only guess is that it is from mold spores that spread from the crawl space. I have balloon construction, and I'm 90% sure the walls are un-insulated. I only prey that the wall cavities aren't covered with fuzz. My plan: 1. Short term solution: Spray the infected sills, joists, and floor boards with bleach just to kill whats on the surface. 2. Take the crawlspace's original moldy vapor barrier and the plastic thats on top of it out. 3. Spray the soil and concrete walls inside the crawlspace with some Foster's 40-80 disinfectant for good measure. Let it dry overnight or so. 4. Install a new vapor barrier...a solid sheet of 10mil or greater plastic. Caulk and tape the plastic to the concrete walls to seal out the soil below as well as possible. 5. Spray the sills, joists and floor boards that were infected in the main part of the basement with Foster's 40-80. 6. Spray those areas again with a protectant like Foster's 40-51 clear encapsulant. 7. Insulate the joist bays that are adjacent to the sill with R-19. Maybe invest in a bigger dehumidifier and put it next to the crawlspace opening. UGH!!!!!!!
I created a thread earlier about mold in my crawlspace and determined I need to install a better vapor barrier and further reduce humidity. See here.... Moldy CrawlSpace Floor....Vapor Barrier....Remove, Replace???? I will be installing the vapor barrier soon but in the short term I put a remote humidity/temp sensor in the crawlspace to monitor things. I learned this. 1. The humidity in the crawlspace is generally 5-10% higher than the basement humidity. The dehumidifier in the basement keeps things at around 45-50% inside the basement. 2. The humidity/temp in the crawlspace is very dependent on the outdoor temp humidity. At night I notice the humidity in the crawlspace go into the 60%'s and then during the day it goes back down to around 50-55% or so. Wet weather makes it worse, dry weather makes it better. Okay. So I need to seal the crawlspace. Obviously too much air is getting in. I want to know if my plans sound okay. What is very important to me is AVOIDING MORE MOLD! - I plan to get some spray foam and go at all the joints in the sill and rim joist. - Make sure the fiberglass insulation under the floor above covers the rim joist where it meets the exterior wall. - Install rigid foam board against the concrete block wall (2-3' high). I'll use 2 for an R-value of 10. - Install a proper vapor barrier on the floor with all seams caulked/taped. - Install a crawlspace dehumidifier to try and keep the humidity below 50%. What do you think? Good ideas? Recipe for disaster? Thanks!
I'm not seeing anything about venting the crawlspace. If the problem is that the dirt is getting wet from outside and then releasing vapor into the air, lack of venting could make it worse. What happens to the water draining from your roof? Is it directed out 10' or more away from the foundation? Is radon a concern in your area or your house?
First thing we did when we moved in was to improve the drainage. The soil actually sloped towards the house. We added soil and things drain properly now. We installed gutters as well. Radon is not a concern (as far as I know). There is a 2'x2' opening connecting the basement with the crawlspace. There are two foundation vents on the exterior walls of the crawlspace. I have them sealed up. When left open the humidity ranges between 60-90% because of the night time humidity.
I merged the threads so we can keep our thought process going in a single line. Hope it agrees with all.
Mold is simple, it needs food....paper, and water, to stay alive. Get rid of the plastic and the paper and the mold will die. Ventilating a crawl space is a waste of time and it costs money. All it does is provide a way for warm wet air to arrive under the floor. This is basically due to the stack effect, the heat inside your home escapes through holes, open windows and doors, it pulls cold air from the crawl space, this air costs a lot of money to warm. Block all the holes in the crawl space, then line the bottom of the floor joists with sheets of polystyrene or similar closed cell insulation. This will help to keep the joists warm and dry. Heat moves into the joists from the room above by radiation and conduction. Condensation doesn't form on warm wood, no condensation....no mold! Warm home!
For BigOldXJ: Sorry to bust in this thread but I'm trying to get info on your post about your farmers porch. Did you get my private message? Please reply when you have time. Thanks very much.
Do I need to remove ALL the paint from my basement walls before I paint them with DryLock? Or do I just remove the loose paint, mortar, dirt, etc. and clean them really well with TSP before I paint them? When I bought the house in '99, before moving in we used a cheap waterproofing paint on the basement walls and floor. BIG MISTAKE!! A year or 2 later I started to notice large sections of the walls starting to bubble up. . .the paint on the floor did not stick for s@$t and gets all wrinkly looking if you spill water no it! All this caused the dreaded mildewy musty smell in the basement. Over the years I've improved the drainage around the house, I run a dehumidifier in the basement during the summer, and I've scraped all the bubbled up paint off the interior basement walls and some of the loose paint off the floor. I'm not sure where to go from here to get rid of the musty smell for good. I'm afraid if I re-paint the basement walls with a waterproofing paint that I will get the same bubbling. . . but I really need to get the musty smell under control. . .any suggestions would be appreciated.
Welcome to the forums! A dehumidifier might help to get rid of the musty smell - maybe you need to run it more often Have you pretty much stopped all the moisture infiltration? Are the walls damp? Drylok works best if it's applied to bare masonary. It should be applied liberally - so all the pores are filled. TSP is a good cleaner but must be rinsed well - I only use it on the exterior. I don't know if I'd go thru the the trouble of removing all the paint but the loose must be removed. If you currently have painted areas that moisture is passing thru, I'd try hard to remove the paint from those areas. Any missing or loose mortar needs to be replaced or at least caulked.
I'd also recommend scrubbing the walls down to remove any loose material. Take a stiff plastic or steel bristle brush, wear a mask and goggles and scrub it all down, ceiling to slab. Then sweep and shop-vac.
Musty smell is from mold! Make sure you are running a good dehumidifier tell RH gets under 55%.
Also, once humidity is finally down, you may want to spray the walls with bleach to kill any spores in the nooks and crannys.
Over the past week I did a couple things: 1) I did the tin foil test on the wall I think is giving me the most problems. After leaving the foil on the wall for 2 days, I was surprised to find that neither the outside nor the inside of the foil was damp. The wall was not damp either. I assume this is a good thing. 2) I'd say I've got 95% of the loose paint off the walls, but I have yet to wash them done with a bleach solution 3) I determined that my musty smell is not coming from the walls as much as it is coming from the cement floor. 4) the humidity level in the basement does not seem all that high, but I'll check if its in the 45% area What we did way back in '99, before fixing any of the exterior drainage issues, was paint the walls and floor with a waterproofing paint. The paint stuck to the floor for about a year, and ever since then all it's been doing is trapping the moisture, seeping up from the floor, between the concrete and the layer of paint. This past weekend I went to town and scraped a lot of the paint off the floor. The musty/mildewy small has gone down quite a bit already without even cleaning the floor. Once I clean the floor, I should be in pretty good shape, regarding the smell. The floor has a dozen or so hair-line cracks and one 1/8 inch crack in it. the seeping seems to be coming from just these cracks, but I've never had enough seepage that it caused standing water. I don't think I can stop the floor from seeping without forking over a lot of money to a professional to fix the problem. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what to do with the floor, if anything? Should I just remove as much paint as possible, leave it unpainted, and give it an annual cleaning with a bleach solution?
Not painting the floor would probably be best. That way the humidifier can work at keeping the moisture level down and no moisture will be trapped under the floor coating. Drylok makes a floor sealer [different than the wall coating] but I've never used it and don't know how well it would work.
Yeah I think you are right, I am going to just leave the floor unpainted. I bought a new dehumidifier last night, the one I had was pretty old. The old one can not even compare to how well the new one works, I am glad I made the switch.
As far as the remaining paint on the wall is concerned, I have a short wall in my basement that was painted. Not sure if its drylok or just white piant. Was done by previous owner. When looking at it the first time after I decided to drylok my basement, I couldn't see how I would get it all off. I called UGL and spoke to a technical inquiry rep. He said to definitely get all the loose paint off it and give it a good cleaning, but what I didn't get off wouldn't be a problem. He also said the UGL warranty does call for a clean of paint surface when applying the drylok, but it would be hard to tell after apply two coates of drylok. Not sure how good the UGL warranty is...it might be just repayment of the purchase price for the drylok. Anyway, that's what I was told by UGL. My basement is mostly dry though. Google UGL and give them a call. They were VERY friendly and returned my message same day.
I've never contacted UGL about their warranty but rarely does a coating warranty cover more than the cost of the product. IMO a warranty is not much more than a sales guide to help you determine the quality of the product. Any failures I've ever encounterd with drylok where either related to improper application [usually too thin] or the moisture problem was too great for an interior coating to stop. It is always best to stop the water on the exterior! although it isn't always practical
Originally Posted by notlohdahc Over the past week I did a couple things: 1) I did the tin foil test on the wall I think is giving me the most problems. After leaving the foil on the wall for 2 days, I was surprised to find that neither the outside nor the inside of the foil was damp. The wall was not damp either. I assume this is a good thing. What is the tin foil test???
I'm not familiar with the 'tin foil test' but I assume it's similiar to taping a section of plastic to the floor to check on moisture. Moisture can't evaporate into the air when covered by plastic - if the plastic stays dry, then there is no moisture problem.
Tape a piece of plastic to the floor?? What kind of plastic? Saran wrap? Trash bag? Something like that? I'm guessing you tape all 4 sides to make a close to air tight seal right??
Tape a lawn and leaf bag, cut it down the side and bottom to open it up, tape it entirely down, leave no openings. Leave it for a day or two and then lift it up. If it's wet, you've got moisture coming up from the bottom.
After spending a couple weekends in my basement scraping the paint off the floor, I've got it pretty much done. I figure, any paint left on the floor can stay there because it must have a pretty good bond with the concrete. My musty smell, is all but gone, EXCEPT when it rains. I don't get any standing water or any obvious moisture spots on the floor or walls, but the musty smell is present(just not as strong as it was before). I did not want to re-paint/seal the floor, but it looks/smells like I have to, if I want the smell to go away completely. What are the proper steps to take to paint/seal a basement floor properly? If you read my original post, that started this thread, you'll see I obviously did a rush job the first time which got me into this mess in the first place. I want to do it right this time so I don't end up right back where I started.
Have you already applied drylok to the walls? IMO it's best not to paint the floors but if you must - I'd see about getting more info about drylok's floor sealer.
Does Drylok work only on cement, or would it work on fieldstone and granite foundations? I think most of the water that gets through fieldstone foundations comes from the spaces between stones, so I'm thinking I need to use waterproof cement rather than drylok. Any advice?