An Introduction to Physical Oceanography
Physical oceanography is an important marine science that studies the physics of water. The currents and tidal patterns of oceanic waters influence everything from climate to migration patterns of aquatic species. With meticulous observations and innovative testing methods, physical oceanographers provides invaluable source data to other marine disciplines like marine biologists and meteorologists.
Identification
Physical oceanography studies the physics and properties of ocean waters. This science is widely considered to be a sub-discipline of geophysics, which studies all of the Earth's natural properties. However, the scientific focus of physical oceanography centers on the oceans' currents, tides, waves and the effects they have on the rest of the environment. Ocean waters are one of the main factors influencing climate, atmospheric conditions, land masses and biological life.
Applications
Observations of the ocean and its important global functions are the primary applications of physical oceanography. Scientific research on global climate, oceanic mixing and coastal wave patterns provides valuable information for oceanic traders and researchers of nearly every discipline. Physical oceanographers provide analytical data and source models that provide clues to prehistoric researchers, navigational information for seafaring captains and technical support for marine biologists.
History
Physical oceanography is a relatively young science. The 1800s are classified as the Era of Surface Oceanography, characterized by observations from the landing decks of sailing ships. The trade winds and the Gulf Stream were charted during this period.
The Era of Deep Sea Exploration extended from 1873 to 1914. This era was characterized by a large number of subsurface expeditions and surveys. The Challenger Expedition is one key example.
Another important period of study was the Era of International Cooperation between 1957 and 1978. This era is typified by multinational, multiship expeditions which explored global concerns like the deterioration of polar ice.
The current period is considered the Era of Earth System Science, and focuses on the relationship between ocean waters and other chemical, biological and physical properties.
Scientific Tasks
Physical oceanography uses scientific data to describe and better understand ocean waters and their interaction with the rest of the environment. Oceanographers acquire this source data from research stations around the world. They provide high quality marine information through careful laboratory experiments and analytical modeling. Research procedures also include the development of new technologies and methods for examining oceanic phenomenon.
Sea Levels
Sea levels provide an important indicator for physical oceanographers. Sea levels are actually a measurement of the average height of ocean waters in relation to a reference surface level. These levels rise and fall and have been changing for millions of years. The Global Sea Level Observing System (GLOSS) provides key information on tidal levels. GLOSS is coordinated by the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission and is comprised of a system of 287 stations around the world.
Currents
Ocean waters are constantly in motion. This movement is called current and significantly influences climate, the biological processes of plants and the migratory behaviors of animals. Currents flow in global patterns that are affected by a number of factors, including wind, salinity and the heat content of the water. Physical oceanographers use two main techniques for analyzing the ocean's currents. The ship drift method is an indirect determination based on how much a nautical ship drifts from one position to the other. The Global Drifter Program is a more modern approach to measuring the ocean's currents. This method employs a global array of floating buoys that relay complex data to observation stations.
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