hot water kickboard heater, blower/fan
I have a house from 1981, heated by hot water baseboards in three zones. I replaced the original boilers with an EK2000 and have Honeywell wireless thermostats. Under one kitchen cabinet there is a kickboard heater with a fan. The piping is connected to zone 3. Problem: the fan seems to run (almost) all the time, even when zone 3 thermostat is not calling. Even when I turn off the thermostat the fan would be running (I even turned off the two others zones for good order). Again not all the time but almost all the time. I see no trigger/switch/thermostat for the fan, but then I cannot see the fan either. Questions: [1]What regulates the fan? [2]Should I be concerned (not so much for the power used but is there a risk of overheating)? [3]Should I consider installing a switch?(I would think the blower has dual purpose: to push teh hot air out in the kicthen to a) increase room temperature and b) reduce temperature below the cabinet). If so, what is the best way of doing that? There will be an aquastat in the kickspace heater that controls the fan. You may have to remove a hatch in the floor of the cabinet to get access to the heater. You can replace the 'stat. I don't think there is any risk of overheating. What is the make and model of the heater? Is it possible that enough heat is migrating up to the area of the kick heater to keep it on? I have a similar situation in my house, and I notice that the kick heater runs long after the thermostat for that zone is satisfied, and occasionally when another zone is calling. My zone valves are on the return- maybe that matters. For me it's not a problem, my wife loves it! Steve Is there a valve on the zone you can close to see if the fan will cease to run when the water flow is positively shut off. Thank you. That makes sense to me and I have, sort of, recognized I probably have to remove part of the floor of the cabinet insofar there is no hatch. So I do not know what the make is yet. Yes that is very plausible. The pipe going up to the kickboard heater is quite warm insofar it is only some 10-12' from the boiler. What has me puzzled is that this is a new problem. I am quite certain I would have noticed in prior years (I have lived here since 1994), so perhaps the problem is a combination of your thinking and a failing aquastat as suggested by gilmorrie. I will try Saves's suggestion of positively shutting of the waterflow on Saturday. Thank you all. This has been most helpful. I will let you know how it works out. Thank you. As per separate, I will try that on Saturday and let you know how that works out. I installed a kickboard heater in my kitchen. I installed a switch in the kitchen (your #3 idea) so that the heater only operates when we feel we need it. I also thought this would help prolong the life of the unit. Perhaps you can find the electrical feed and install a switch in or near your kitchen. If your kickspace heater is 10 ft from your boiler, then almost certainly there is some hot water flow from it probably because the flow valve is hanging up, because if the stat is bad on the kicker even if the fan comes on there wont be any heat if the pipes are not hot. At least you have good flow through the kicker. Some posters complain of a lack of flow in thier blowers. Anyway try to turn that little thumbscrew or nut on top of your flow valve a few turns counterclockwise and back down until it stops, and see if that helps. Sid Another way to add a switch and gain more control over the room temp is to utilize a line voltage t-stat. An example of the wiring can be found in Wiring Diagram #2 in the Beacon Morris I/O Manual (you didn't mention what brand/model kick-space heater you have). But I think it would be best to first identify why you are getting heat migration now when you weren't before. Something has changed. Is your system zoned with separate pumps, or are zone valves used? I don't believe it's a migration thing... I think that the thermostatic element that switches the fan on and off has failed. If I'm not mistaken it's one of those 'therm-o-disc' types, and like any other component, can fail. I have installed two Beacon-Morris kickspace heaters. Info here: Beacon/Morris Residential, Commercial, Heat, Hot Water, Steam, Gas, Kickspace Heaters, Hydronic, Oil. My recollection is that the aquastat clips onto the supply tubing and is easy to replace. There is no separate conrol or manual valve that comes with the heater. The flow through the heater would be controlled by the zone valve or pump, if any. Beacon-Morris info shows an alternative for controlling the fan by the zone thermostat instead of the aquastat. I don't like the idea of a separate manual switch for the fan - when I go down to the kitchen in the morning, I want that heater blowing on my feet! And, I might not remember to turn off a manual switch - and if I did remember, then it wouldn't be blowing for my wife, who comes down later. When new cabinets or countertops are installed, the easiest way is to install the heater, piping, and wiring on the bare floor, and then lower the countertop over it. But, unless a hatch is cut in the bottom of the cabinet, there is no access for maintenance or cleaning. You should be able to cut a hatch with a saber saw - be careful to avoid cutting into the heater. Doesn't B-M offer a 'flexible hose kit' that allows the heater to be pulled out from under the cabinet? Personally, I would be a little nervous about a hose connection... but then, we drive cars with hoses all the time... but they won't leak under our cabinets, will they? Originally Posted by NJ Trooper I don't believe it's a migration thing... I think that the thermostatic element that switches the fan on and off has failed. If I'm not mistaken it's one of those 'therm-o-disc' types, and like any other component, can fail. All the more reason an access hatch by the original installer would have been nice... When I replaced some old, beat-up baseboard in a small pantry with a BM unit last year, I made sure I made it serviceable (easy access, flex hose kit, shut-offs purge valve, bleeder valve on unit). I can't really remember what the BM unit t-stat/aquastat looked like, but it was something that got clipped onto the copper tubing. In any case, it's good to know that, if it fails, I can swap it out in about 15 minutes - after I have my coffee. Originally Posted by NJ Trooper Doesn't B-M offer a 'flexible hose kit' that allows the heater to be pulled out from under the cabinet I installed one of my two Beacon-Morris units with their flexible, rubber hose kit. It makes installation simpler than hard piping - but I'm not so sure about dragging the unit out from under the counter. The hoses go up from my basement through 1 holes in the floor. I seem to recall screwing the heater down to the subfloor. And then, there is the 120-V electrical connection to the fan that would need to be snaked out, too. I think it might be easier to just cut a hatch in the floor of the cabinet. My other B-M unit is hard-piped with copper piping. More work than the hose kit, but probably better, I think. P.S. I said the hoses were rubber. Probably some synthetic material. Hello All, Brings up the quesion. What about rubber hose and oxygen barrier or lack of there of? Peter Originally Posted by PeterNH Brings up the quesion. What about rubber hose and oxygen barrier or lack of there of? I had the same question, and I seem to recall contacting Beacon-Morris, probably via email - but I don't recall getting a response. I should have phoned and spoken to a human. The hose has a bunch of numbers on it, including ASTM specs, etc. It's rated at 100 psig and 180 F. I haven't had any problem with it, so far, but if I were do it again, I'd hard pipe it. Originally Posted by gilmorrie I had the same question, and I seem to recall contacting Beacon-Morris, probably via email - but I don't recall getting a response. I should have phoned and spoken to a human. The hose has a bunch of numbers on it, including ASTM specs, etc. It's rated at 100 psig and 180 F. I haven't had any problem with it, so far, but if I were do it again, I'd hard pipe it. According to the Q A section of the PexSupply listing for the hose kit, BM says the hoses do indeed have an oxygen barrier. Originally Posted by Rockledge BM says the hoses do indeed have an oxygen barrier. OK, thanks. That is reassuring.
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